Scotland is in my blood – my family hails from the Highlands, Ayrshire and Glasgow. My food lovers’ guide to Scotland shares insider travel tips on where to eat, drink and stay. See FAQ below for more.
Late spring to early autumn (May to September) brings the longest days and mildest weather.
September is my favourite month – it’s when I run my Scottish food tours, and many say it’s Scotland’s best eating month. Native oysters return to menus, langoustines and scallops are at their peak and the game season is in full swing, with grouse, partridge and venison. Woodlands are full of chanterelles, ceps and brambles.
Summer crowds also thin in Edinburgh once school holidays and the August festivals end.
Some places do in July and August – especially Edinburgh during the August festivals, along with main tourist attractions such as the Isle of Skye, Glencoe, Loch Ness and the North Coast 500 route.
Visit in May/June or September, set out early and explore lesser-known regions such as Perthshire, West Argyll and the Isle of Mull to enjoy Scotland at a gentler pace.
Scotland has a mild climate, and the weather changes quickly – sunshine and showers in a single afternoon create its famously dramatic skies and rainbows.
Summer brings long days, with nearly 18 hours of daylight in June and temperatures around 15–19°C.
The east coast is generally drier and sunnier than the west. Pack layers whatever the season.
Trains are a relaxing way to travel between the cities – Edinburgh and Glasgow are less than an hour apart – and the West Highland Line to Fort William and Mallaig is one of the world’s great scenic rail journeys.
To explore the Highlands at your own pace, a car gives you the most freedom (see driving tips below).
Ferries link the mainland to the Hebrides and west coast islands, as well as the Northern Isles of Orkney and Shetland. Book ahead in summer, especially if you’re taking a car, and build a spare day into your plans – sailings depend on the weather, and cancellations and delays are common.
Scots drive on the left.
Many Highland and island roads are single-track with passing places. Pull into a passing place on your left to let oncoming cars through – or wait opposite one on your right – and use them to let faster traffic overtake.
Allow plenty of time: distances look short on the map, but the scenery (and the sheep) will slow you down.
Scots usually sip single malt neat or with a few drops of water added to open up the aromas – ice tends to mute the flavour.
Save single malt for sipping – or for cocktails where its distinctive character shines – and choose a blended whisky for everyday mixed drinks such as whisky and ginger ale, a popular local choice.
In Scotland, simply ask for ‘a whisky’ – ‘Scotch’ is the name used abroad and they wouldn’t dream of serving you anything but a local dram.
If you’re first to say ‘Cheers’, raise your glass with ‘Slàinte mhath’ (slahn-cha va) – meaning ‘good health’. The response from everyone else is a raised glass and the shorter ‘Slàinte’. Locals say this is to allow more time for drinking.