Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, is one of Europe’s great food cities — and one of the world’s most beautiful cities to explore on foot.
Split between the medieval Old Town of closes and wynds and the Georgian New Town of sweeping crescents, its foodie hubs of Leith and gentrified Stockbridge offer some of Scotland’s best restaurants, bars, cafés and food shops. Edinburgh is a city that rewards the wanderer — the one who slips off the Royal Mile into a hidden courtyard garden, follows the Water of Leith through Dean Village as though the bustling city had suddenly dissolved, or stumbles into a candlelit basement bar where the whisky list reads like a map of Scotland.
Stay in Edinburgh Voco Royal Terrace Hotel
This comfortable hotel sits right in the centre of the imposing heritage-listed Georgian townhouses on the Royal Terrace, the UK’s longest Georgian terrace. A quiet neighbourhood – with cobbled streets, lush gardens and views down to the Firth of Forth – it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the Old Town and between my two favourite Edinburgh food hubs: Stockbridge and Leith, so the ideal place to stay for exploring Edinburgh’s best eats.
Eat in Leith Barry Fish
Warm, welcoming and decidedly unpretentious, Barry Fish serves up some of the best seafood and hospitality Scotland has to offer. Chef Barry Bryson puts a lot of thought into produce, flavours and people – bringing everything together beautifully. House-cured seatrout pastrami is delicious in its simplicity, but the show stopper is smoked fish agnolotti with generous chunks of lobster in a light beurre blanc. Spot on wine matches too.
Eat in Stockbridge The Scran & Scallie
At Edinburgh’s best gastropub, Tom Kitchin creates Scottish classics with the same quality produce used at his Michelin-starred fine-diner in Leith. I could happily devour everything on this comfort-food menu, from the cock-a-leekie (see video below) to the fish pie. Of course there’s haggis, neeps and tatties, as well as the best Scotch egg ever. The Scran & Scallie has a relaxed, casual feel with friendly service and a great wine list too.
Edinburgh Wine Bar Little Capo
Perhaps it’s the warm terracotta paint job on this small wine bar just down from Queen Street Gardens, but I liked it the instant I saw it! Inside, more of the same great vibe – buzzy without being loud, friendly staff, and a wonderful ever-changing list of vermouths. The food’s delicious too, with a great selection of dishes perfect for snacking, sharing and chatting over with a few glasses of wine at the white tile-topped bar.
Edinburgh Pub St Vincent Bar
If I lived in Edinburgh I’d make ‘The Vinnie’ my local. This wood-panelled and olive green bar – in the basement of a Georgian townhouse on the edge of Stockbridge – is full of the chatter of locals, with a lovely warm vibe and friendly staff. It features cask ale, interesting wines by the glass and good cocktails, especially the hot gin (a bit like a mulled cider). With a wall of photos of its fur-customers, it may be the most dog-friendly pub in Scotland too!
Shop in Edinburgh Valvona & Crolla
Italian immigrants arrived in Scotland from the late 1800s – bringing gelato, espresso, and a culture of warmth around the table that the country embraced. Scotland’s oldest deli (and one of my favourite shops in the world), Valvona & Crolla was founded in 1934 and is still in the same family. It has a vast array of Italian goods, alongside Scottish delicacies like Chrystal’s all-butter shortbread and Brodies of Edinburgh tea (perfect for souvenirs).
What To Do in Edinburgh Old Town Walking Tour
There’s no such thing as a free lunch – or a free tour – but the Old Town walking tour offered by this company allows you to pay whatever you think it was worth; can’t get fairer than that. If all the guides are as good as Rory (who hosted mine), I think you’ll agree it’s worth a bit! With a PhD in Scottish history, Rory has a gift for weaving history, architecture, culture, literature and politics into an entertaining and informative 2-hour stroll.
Published 17 May 2026
