Edinburgh is a city of contrasts: the medieval Old Town of narrow wynds and closes and the Georgian New Town of sweeping crescents …
… the Royal Mile packed with tourist shops (and tourists) and the quiet back streets of inner-city suburbs full of great bars and restaurants as well as the occasional wonderfully quirky shop (I’m looking at you, Black Moon Botanica purveyors of esoteric and occult goods). So it seems fitting that the best restaurants in Edinburgh are likewise split across two very different neighbourhoods. Ten minutes from the New Town, the once-working-class-now-decidedly-gentrified suburb of Stockbridge is home to Edinburgh’s best food shops and some of its finest pubs and restaurants. About 30 minutes north, on the Firth of Forth, the old dockyard area of Leith houses cool bars and Michelin-starred restaurants alongside long-standing blue-collar pubs — retaining just enough of its original grittiness to keep things interesting. Here are my top picks for Edinburgh’s best restaurants, from fine dining and neighbourhood favourites to fun snacks.
Seafood Barry Fish (Leith)
Barry Bryson serves up some of the best seafood and hospitality in Edinburgh at this welcoming restaurant. Spanking fresh fish with great flavour combos and minimal fuss means everything on the plate sings! Seabass ceviche with pickled celery is refreshing; braised squid with a preserved lemon and wild leek is super tasty; and you know how I feel about that smoked fish agnolotti! Best rice pudding ever, and wine pairings spot on too!
Fine Dining The Kitchin (Leith)
Preparing excellent produce with a thoughtful twist, Tom Kitchen strikes a balance between the expectations of a Michelin star and a relaxed dining experience. Provenance is key and there’s a clear sense of place in the décor and kilted staff. Wine pairings are a highlight, from a Languedoc blanc with a clever clam ‘Waldorf salad’, to a South African chenin blend alongside beautifully seared red mullet on fregola risotto with broad beans.
All Day Snacking (& Drinking) Ardfern (Leith)
Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron serves up a casual all-day menu of delicious dishes perfect for sharing in this basic space next to her fine-diner, The Little Chartroom. A creamy, salty, crunchy spinach and feta topped-hash brown is my kind of bar snack, and rare beef on toast with creamy tangy tonnato sauce, pickled onion, caperberries and herbs is one of the tastiest things I’ve ever eaten, perfect with a skinsy Slovenian rebula.
Scottish-Japanese Fusion Noto (New Town)
This minimalist restaurant can feel a bit spartan, especially when it’s quiet. But once the food arrives, that’s all forgotten. Savoury chawanmushi custard has a wonderful aroma and flavour from Arbroath Smokies; crunchy, chewy fingers of pressed rice take tangy beef tartare next level; and chocolate mousse is lifted by salty, umami miso caramel. The set lunch menu is great value and best shared with a friend or two to chat to between courses.
Neighbourhood Italian Sotto (Stockbridge)
The favourite local of food-loving friends, this casual Italian has a lovely vibe, friendly staff, good food and a strong wine focus. The shared marble table feels like dining in a friend’s home, with candles on books and a beautiful ceramic centrepiece. Most dishes are perfect for sharing, including house-baked focaccia with pesto Trapanese and tender mussels with chunky croutons in an amped up ‘nduja and tomato sauce. Delish tiramisu too!
Gastropub Scran & Scallie (Stockbridge)
Using the same quality produce as at his Leith fine diner, Tom Kitchin riffs on comforting Scottish classics in Edinburgh’s best gastropub. Snack on addictive potato and Chantenay carrot chips while perusing ‘Oor Menu’ to decide between fish pie, Scotch eggs, or haggis with neeps and tatties. And save room for ‘Oor Puddins’, like a clever Aussie-Scot fusion of cranachan pavlova with seasonal fruits. Friendly service and a great wine list too.
Published 19 May 2026
