This salmon al cartoccio (or sto harti in Greek) is inspired by the classic Greek slow-cooked lamb taught to me by my friend Janni Kyritsis. The low-slow cooking in a parcel gives a wonderfully delicate result, the fish is cooked through but still quite bright and ‘just-set’ in the thickest parts. Cook the salmon for a longer or shorter time, depending on how you like your fish. The Italians call cooking in parchment paper al Cartoccio, in French it’s en papillote and to the Greeks it’s sto harti or kleftiko. Slice the lemon and garlic very thinly so they’ll cook through and, depending on your taste, discard them after cooking once they’ve flavoured the salmon. For maximum flavour, it’s also best to cook the salmon with the skin on, even if you discard it before eating. You can prepare it in the bag 2–3 hours before cooking, but no longer as the lemon will start to ‘cook’ the delicate fish. If you refrigerate the marinating fish, remove it from the fridge an hour before cooking to bring it to room temperature. Serve your salmon al cartoccio with plenty of crusty bread and a side dish of Pan-fried Agrodolce Radicchio if you like. I love a rose with this recipe, especially the rosato from Edoardo Patrone in the Piedmont Alps.
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