Truffle Risotto

While truffles are indulgent, a little goes a long way and they have such a short season that it’s worth indulging while they’re around. You can buy a small one online from around $75 (with delivery) from Fish River Truffles near Bathurst (use code Roberta20 to save 20%). Truffles need a couple of things to bring out their full flavour and aroma: fat and gentle heat. So risotto is the perfect use for these gifts of winter. As soon as you get your truffle, store it in the risotto rice which will start to absorb it’s aroma. I like the distinctive flavour of pecorino in this luxe truffle risotto; a relatively mild one like a Pecorino Toscano works best, though you could use Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano. Most risotto is made with stock, often chicken stock, though I sometimes use just water with great results. I like to add some dried mushrooms to truffle risotto to reinforce the truffle’s earthy character and so I can use the soaking water as the cooking stock; chanterelles or morels work well. While I love porcini on their own, their stronger flavour may overshadow the truffle. If you prefer, skip the dried mushrooms, use chicken stock and double the truffles! I love a glass of Renzaglia di Renzo Nuovo with truffle risotto. This light red blend of sangiovese, graciano and merlot marries beautifully with the earthiness and creaminess of this truffle risotto, and it can take a light chilling if you feel so inclined. I make risotto the way chef Alessandro Pavoni taught me (see video below), just gently shaking the pan for the first half of the cooking, then stirring constantly after about 8 minutes. It works as long as once you start stirring, you don’t stop. Give it a try!

Serves 2 as a starter

Ingredients

30g dried chanterelles (1oz)
3 cups hot tap water (750ml)
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (30ml)
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
¾ cup carnaroli rice (150g/5¼oz)
¼ cup dry white wine (60ml)
2 tablespoon freshly grated pecorino (8g/⅓oz)
35g cold butter, diced (1¼ oz/7 teaspoons)
20g black truffle (¾oz)

Method

Place chanterelles in a bowl, add water and set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Heat oil in a high-sided frying pan over medium heat, add shallot and a good pinch of salt, cover and cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but not coloured.
Remove from heat, cover and set aside.
Remove chanterelles from the water and squeeze over the bowl to extract as much liquid as possible.
Pour soaking water into a small saucepan, leaving any sediment in the bowl.
Place over medium heat; as soon as it starts to simmer reduce heat to low and cover.
Meanwhile, slice chanterelles and set aside.
Return frying pan with the shallot to a medium heat, add rice, increase heat to high and stir for a minute or 2, until the grains are hot and well coated in oil.
Add wine and cook for 30–60 seconds without stirring, just shaking the pan to combine, until most of the liquid has been absorbed.
Reduce heat to medium, add enough of the chanterelle soaking water to cover the rice well.
Cook for 8 minutes, without stirring, adding more soaking water as it starts to be absorbed and gently shaking the pan to combine.
Increase heat to medium–high, add chanterelles and start gently stirring, adding more liquid a ladleful at a time as each lot is absorbed.
Stirring constantly, cook for a further 8–10 minutes, until rice is tender but still has some bite.
Stir in salt and add another ladle of stock (or boiling water if all the stock has been used).
Remove from heat, add pepper, pecorino and butter, grate in half the truffle and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until all the butter and cheese is incorporated, adding a little more liquid if necessary to keep it moist and soupy. Taste, add more salt if needed, then cover and set aside for 2 minutes or so.
Spoon risotto onto warmed flat plates, tapping them on a tea towel-covered bench to spread the risotto out.
Shave remaining truffle over the top and serve.