Porcini Risotto with Salmon

Name: Porcini Risotto with Salmon
Yield: 2
Cuisine: Italian
Ingredients: 1 x 300g piece salmon fillet, skin on; 30g dried porcini; 750ml hot tap water; 1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for pan-frying; 1 golden shallot, finely chopped; Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste; 150g carnaroli rice; ¼ cup dry white wine; 2 tablespoon freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano; 25g cold butter, diced

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While salmon isn’t indigenous to Italian waters – preferring the colder oceans further north – it is very popular in Italy. It’s delicious served with this earthy porcini risotto and the pink flesh contrasts beautifully too. Cook the salmon with the skin on, even if you prefer not to eat it that way. The skin forms a barrier between the heat of the pan and the delicate flesh, so cooking it skin down for most of the time gives a succulent result. Use the cooked skin as a garnish, or discard it, as you prefer. I’ve learnt a thing or two about making risotto from my friend Alessandro Pavoni. One of the most surprising lessons was that you don’t have to stir it constantly, though once you start stirring you can’t stop; see the video below for more risotto-making tips from Alessandro. The soft complexity of Vinden Estate gamay (with a splash of shiraz, gewürztraminer and pinot meunier), works a treat alongside the layered flavours of this porcini risotto with salmon.

Serves 2

Ingredients

1 x 300g piece salmon fillet, skin on
30g dried porcini
750ml hot tap water
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for pan-frying
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
150g carnaroli rice
¼ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoon freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
25g cold butter, diced

Method

Remove salmon from the fridge 30–60 minutes before cooking so it comes to room temperature.
Place porcini in water and set aside for 30 minutes.
Heat oil in a high-sided frying pan over medium heat, add shallot and a good pinch of salt, cover and cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but not coloured. Remove from heat, cover and set aside.
Remove mushrooms from the water and squeeze over the bowl to extract as much liquid as possible.
Pour soaking water into a small saucepan, leaving any sediment in the bowl.
Place over medium heat; as soon as it starts to simmer reduce heat to low.
Meanwhile, slice mushrooms and set aside.
Return frying pan with the shallot to a medium heat, add rice, increase heat to high and stir for a minute or 2, until the grains are hot and well coated in oil.
Add wine and cook for 30–60 seconds without stirring, just shaking the pan to combine, until most of the liquid has been absorbed.
Reduce heat to medium, add enough of the mushroom soaking water to cover the rice well.
Cook for 8 minutes, without stirring, adding more soaking water as it starts to be absorbed and gently shaking the pan to combine.
Meanwhile, place another small frying pan over medium heat.
Sprinkle salmon generously with salt and pepper all over, salting the skin especially well.
Drizzle a little oil into the pan, then add fish, skin side down, and cook for 8–10 minutes until skin is well-coloured and flesh has turned opaque part way up the sides of the fish.
Turn fish over, increase heat to medium and cook for a further 3 minutes or so, depending on thickness and whether or not you like it rare in the centre. If the fish is very thick, sear each side for a few seconds too.
Transfer to a rack over a plate, skin side up, and set aside in a warm place.
Meanwhile, after rice has been cooking for 8 minutes, increase heat to medium–high, add mushroom and start gently stirring, adding more liquid a ladleful at a time as each lot is absorbed.
Stirring constantly, cook for a further 8–10 minutes, until rice is tender but still has some bite.
Stir in salt and add another ladle of stock (or boiling water if all the stock has been used).
Remove from heat, add pepper, Parmigiano and butter, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until all the butter and cheese is incorporated, adding a little more liquid if necessary to keep it moist and soupy.
Taste, add more salt if needed, then cover and set aside for a minute or 2.
Meanwhile, remove salmon skin, use kitchen scissors to cut it into strips and set aside.
Spoon risotto onto warmed flat plates, tapping them on a tea towel-covered bench to spread the risotto out.
Place salmon on top of rice, skin side down, and break it up a little.
Garnish with all or some of the salmon skin if you like. Serve.