This salmon al cartoccio (or sto harti in Greek) is inspired by the classic Greek slow-cooked lamb as taught to me by my friend Janni Kyritsis. The low-slow cooking in a parcel gives a wonderfully delicate result, the fish is cooked through but still quite bright and ‘just-set’ in the thickest parts. Cook the salmon for a longer or shorter time, depending on how you like your fish. The Italians call cooking in parchment paper ‘al cartoccio’, in French it’s ‘en papillote’ and to the Greeks it’s ‘sto harti’ or ‘kleftiko’. Slice the lemon and garlic very thinly so they’ll cook through and, depending on your taste, discard them after cooking once they’ve flavoured the salmon. For maximum flavour, it’s best to cook the salmon with the skin on, even if you discard it before eating. You can prepare the salmon al cartoccio in the bag 2–3 hours before cooking, but no longer or the lemon will start to ‘cook’ the delicate fish. If you refrigerate the marinating fish, remove it from the fridge an hour before cooking to bring it to room temperature. Serve your salmon al cartoccio with plenty of crusty bread and a side dish of Pan-fried Agrodolce Radicchio if you like. I love a rosé with this recipe, especially the rosato from Edoardo Patrone in the Piedmont Alps.
Serves 4
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