Home to one of Italy’s most iconic red wines – Valpolicella – and one of its most popular whites – Soave, the province of Verona in Veneto borders Lake Garda (and Lombardy) in the west and German-influenced Trentino-Alto Adige in the northeast.
Verona is a food and wine lovers delight. Most of the province is rolling green hills covered in vineyards, olive groves and cherry orchards – then there are the dramatic slopes of Monte Lessini in the north. The bold red wines of Valpolicella are used in regional dishes like risotto all’Amarone and eggs poached in Valpolicella, as well as being served alongside them. Meanwhile in Soave, there are some exciting developments reigniting interest in this often-maligned wine. Just over an hour’s drive from Venice, and easily combined with a visit to the city of Verona, the wine country of Valpolicella and Soave is a great addition to any visit to Veneto and a relaxing destination in its own right. Here’s my food and wine lovers’ guide to Valpolicella and Soave: where to stay, eat and drink in Verona province, including my favourite wineries and restaurants.
Stay & Drink in Valpolicella Massimago Cantina & Wine Relais
This charming winery B&B in the heart of Valpolicella produces excellent Amarone and Ripasso as well as wines from lesser known grapes. Rooms look out over the surrounding vine-and-olive-covered hillsides and the estate’s organic garden, which produces 85% of the ingredients for its menus. A guided wine tasting in Massimago’s atmospheric cellar is the perfect way to learn about Valpolicella.
Dinner in Valpolicella Trattoria La Torre
This elegant trattoria, tucked in the cellar of a 13th century church just a few minutes from Massimago, oozes atmosphere with exposed stone walls and a curved ceiling of handmade bricks. La Torre is the perfect place to enjoy the harmony of local cuisine and wine. Bigoli (thick local spaghetti) with duck ragù is a great pairing for Valpolicella Ripasso and poached egg in aged cheese sauce with crisp guanciale is delicious with an Amarone.
Lunch in Valpolicella Ostaria Trattoria Castel
This rustic eatery, in a sleepy village of the German-influenced Lessinia highlands, is well worth the short detour off the Valpolicella wine route. While locals grab a workday lunch of panini and beer in the front bar, settle into the adjoining dining room for great views and Germanic fare such as excellent speck (smoked prosciutto) cured in Valpolicella wine and canederli (salumi, cheese and bread dumplings) in porcini sauce.
Drink in Soave Suavia
High on a terraced hillside in the Italian pre-Alps, Alessandra Tessari and her sisters are restoring the reputation of Veneto’s most popular white wine: Soave. While the valley floor makes bulk wine for export, the sorelle Tessari produce far more complex and delicious wines from Soave Classico vines grown at 300m. The view from their beautiful tasting room puts their distinctive wines in context and the drive up there is an adventure in itself.
Eat & Drink in Soave Enoteca Realda
Lisa Anselmi and Paolo Pagliarini’s wine bar-restaurant – on the flower-filled piazza beside Soave’s medieval Scaligeri castle – is full of dark wood, rich colours, delicious food and distinctive wines. The daughter of maverick winemaker Roberto Anselmi, who broke away from the Soave appellation, Lisa’s enoteca offers great wines alongside delicious regional dishes like vitello tonnato, seasonal asparagus risotto and crunchy sbrisolona cookies.
Drive Valpolicella Wine Route
Take a few days to explore the Strada del Vino Valpolicella which consists of multiple itineraries rather than one cohesive route. As well as delicious wines, there are cherry orchards, olive groves and beautiful villas to discover. My favourite section is from Grezzana to San Mauro di Saline in the north east. Here the wild Lessinia highlands, settled by Bavarians in the 13th century, still have traces of German food, culture and place names.
Updated 22 Jul 2026
