Salade Lyonnaise is one of my favourite starters and also makes a great light meal. I became addicted to it on a trip to Lyon where I had an excellent version at the bouchon La Meunière. As with all simple recipes, there’s a trick or two that take it from good to great, like a perfectly poached egg (I’ll show you how here) and using the fat rendered from the speck to make the warm mustardy dressing. Use a slightly sweet (agrodolce) vinegar for the dressing, nothing too sharp; Banyuls or a good Sherry vinegar work well, as does ALTO Olive’s delicious merlot vinegar. Use only the smallest, tender leaves of the frisée (also called curly endive), saving the rest for something escarole frittata. If you’re ordering this in Lyon, don’t confuse salade Lyonnaise with the much more substantial saladier Lyonnais, often served as a succession of dishes involving sheep’s trotters, chicken livers and pickled herrings. I like a rich white Rhône grape with this hearty salad, such as roussanne or marsanne, La Petite Mort’s barrel-fermented marsanne works especially well.
Serves 2 (or 4 as a starter with 2 extra eggs)
Mustard Dressing
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