Vichyssoise

Name: Vichyssoise
Yield: 8
Cuisine: French
Ingredients: ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil; 500g leeks (about 2), white part only, washed well and finely sliced; Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste; 500g floury potatoes, peeled and diced; 2 litres water; Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste; 300ml pouring cream; 1 bunch chives, finely sliced

Created in the early 1900s by the head chef of the New York Ritz Carlton, vichyssoise is a simple potato and leek soup that’s delicious year-round. Serve it cold in summer as a refreshing start to a meal, or warm in the cooler months as a comforting first course or simple supper with crusty bread. Chef Louis Diat based it on his grandmother’s hot leek and potato soup, which he often enjoyed in summer with some cold milk stirred into it. Good floury potatoes, such as The Gourmet Potato’s Dutch creams, make a big difference, as does a generous hand with the salt, especially if serving it chilled. I usually add a couple of teaspoons in the final seasoning. As for a wine match with vichyssoise, I love the classic combo of sherry and soup, especially with the kick that the surprisingly dark Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino 35 brings to the pairing.

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients

1 leek
1 brown onion, finely chopped
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (30ml)
Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
250g floury potatoes, peeled and diced (9oz)
2 cups water or chicken stock (500ml)
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
⅓ cup single cream (80ml half-and-half)
Finely snipped chives, for serving

Method

Wash leeks well to dislodge any soil caught between their layers. Finely slice the white and pale green part, reserving the rest for stock if you like.
Heat oil in a saucepan over a low heat, stir in leek, onion and a teaspoon of salt.
Cover and cook for 15 minutes or so, stirring frequently, until softened thoroughly but not coloured.
Add potato and water, bring to the boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for a further 15–20 minutes, until tender.
Use a food processor or stick blender to blend until just smooth, don’t over blend it.
Stir in pepper, nutmeg and most of the cream, reserving a little for garnish. Taste and salt generously.
If serving chilled, pass through a fine sieve, cover and refrigerate until needed.
Ladle into bowls, add a swirl of remaining cream and an extra grate of nutmeg if you like, scatter with chives and serve.