You may be familiar with the Venetian dish of sardines in saòr (sardelle in saòr), sardines marinated in a sweet and sour onion mixture (if not, see FAQ below). In the province of Padua, just outside Venice, they serve the prized local Padovan hens in a dish called gallina in saòr. It’s often referred to as ‘pulled chicken’ in English, which doesn’t do this delicious regional specialty justice. Gallina in saor is a perfect dish for entertaining as it’s best made a day ahead so the chicken has time to marinate in the sweet and sour onion mixture – just be certain to remove it from the fridge an hour or so before serving as it should be eaten at room temperature (ideal for ‘bring a plate’ parties). Leftovers keep well for a couple of days too. Gallina in saòr is typically an appetiser, served in a bowl with a pile of crisp crostini for texture. I first had it this way in my favourite restaurant in Padova, Bacaro Padovano. It can also be plated as a starter with a drizzle of olive oil, grind of pepper and colourful accompaniment like agro-dolce radicchio, which is how it is served at Agriturismo Ca’ de Memi where owner Michela Tasca included it in a cooking class for my Veneto food & wine tour. Michela uses a whole Padovan hen, as is traditional – I use chicken marylands as the darker meat of the thigh and drumstick stays juicier and has more flavour than the breast of commercially available chickens. Whatever chicken you use, freeze the cooking liquid to use as stock for other recipes like risotto (see video below). Gallina in saor needs a wine with good body to meet the slightly sweet and sour flavours. I love Greysands pinot bianco from Tasmania with it – the notes of melon and nectarine, great acid and touch of bitterness on the finish harmonise beautifully with this unusual Italian ‘pulled chicken’.
Serves 8 as an appetiser or starter
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In Venice, and the surrounding region of Veneto, saòr is a traditional preservation technique. Seafood – typically small oily sardines – were stored in a sweet and sour marinade of slowly cooked onion, vinegar, and sugar to preserve them for long sea voyages. Over time, currants, raisins and pine nuts were added to the recipe, a reminder of the Venetian Republic’s trading ties with the Eastern Mediterranean. When used for preservation, to prevent spoilage the vinegar and sugar levels would have been much higher than they are in modern recipes.
Saòr is the Venetian dialect word for the Italian ‘sapore’ meaning ‘flavour’ or ‘savoury’, a reference to the tastiness of food prepared with this sweet and sour onion marinade.
In the Venetian province of Padua, the Padovana hen is prepared in saòr. This colourful ancient breed has a distinctive feather crest and is prized for its tasty meat. Being a traditional breed the flesh is firm and well-suited to slow cooking and marinating, retaining its flavour and texture. If making gallina in saor with commercially-available chickens it’s best to use the darker thigh and drumstick meat which will remain juicy, as the breast meat of these birds tends to be tasteless and dry out easily.
