Risi e bisi (literally ‘rice and peas’ in Venetian dialect) is a classic Venetian risotto traditionally made in spring, when the first of the season’s small, sweet peas arrive. Historically, it was served to the Doge of Venice on 25 April for the Feast of San Marco. Served much soupier than other risottos, risi e bisi is half way between a minestra (thick soup) and a risotto – many Venetians insist it isn’t technically a risotto at all (though I count it as one). Venetians prefer vialone nano rice to the more commonly seen carnaroli, but you can use either, and you can use veggie stock instead of chicken stock for a vegetarian risi e bisi. In winter, fresh peas can be starchy rather than sweet, so it’s better to use frozen peas (no need to thaw them, just add them to the pan from the freezer). In spring it’s worth podding your own peas and simmering the pods in the stock for 20 minutes or so to add their flavour to this Venetian rice and peas. It’s impossible to know exactly how much stock you’ll need for any risotto, as it depends on the moisture content of the rice as well as the type of pan and temperature you cook it at. If you run out of stock, use a little boiling water – and if you have a little stock leftover and like a soupy risi e bisi, add it at the end. You’ll notice I don’t stir the risotto constantly from the start, a trick I learned from my mate Alessandro Pavoni, see video below.

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients
  • 1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (30ml)
  • ½ brown onion, finely chopped
  • Salt flakes, to taste
  • 75g flat pancetta, diced (2⅔oz)
  • 2 tablespoons dry white wine (40ml)
  • 700g (1lb 9oz) peas in the pod (250g/9oz shelled)
  • 1.25 litres Chicken Stock or Vegetable Stock, more or less (2½ pints)
  • 250g vialone nano rice (9oz)
  • 50g cold butter, diced (1¾oz)
  • 25g finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano (1oz)
  • 1½ tablespoons very finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Method
  1. Place oil, onion and a good pinch of salt in a large high-sided frying pan over low–medium heat, cover and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but not coloured.
  2. Add pancetta, increase heat to medium and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until fat has mostly rendered.
  3. Add wine and stir well to remove any bits stuck to the base of the pan.
  4. Reduce temperature to low–medium, add peas, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until thawed (if frozen); or about 12 minutes, until just tender with some bite (if fresh).
  5. Meanwhile, bring stock to the boil. Cover and set aside beside the pan.
  6. Remove pea mixture from pan and set aside.
  7. Add rice to the pan and increase heat to medium–high, stir for 2–3 minutes, until rice is hot to the touch but not coloured; it should start to smell toasty.
  8. Add enough stock to cover the rice well. Scrape down the sides of the pan, but do not stir.
  9. Shake the pan to combine the ingredients, reduce heat and leave rice to cook, without stirring, for 10 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally and adding more stock as necessary to keep the rice just covered. Adjust the heat, if necessary, so that the liquid is gently bubbling.
  10. Meanwhile, boil the kettle in case you run out of stock.
  11. After 10 minutes, stir in another ladle of stock. Increase heat slightly so it’s just bubbling and stir continuously, adding more stock as each ladleful is absorbed for about 7 minutes, until rice is almost al dente.
  12. Stir in pea and pancetta mixture and another ladle of stock and stir for about 2 minutes, until rice is just al dente.
  13. Add another ladle of stock, remove from heat, beat in butter, cheese and parsley.
  14. Taste and add salt. Cover and set aside for 2 minutes.
  15. If you like your risi e bisi soupier, add any remaining stock or a little boiling water.
  16. Serve in shallow bowls.

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How To Make Risotto

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