One of the best ice creams I’ve ever tasted was made by Tim Pak Poy at Claude’s in Woollahra in the early 2000s when Australia’s first truffles were harvested. It was flavoured with violets and black truffle. Inspired by the memory of that dish, this is my simplified black truffle ice cream, sans violets. The base for traditional French ice cream is a simple custard (crème Anglaise). I add the truffle at the last minute and let it steep in the warm custard so none of its volatile aroma is lost. You can buy a small truffle online from around $75 (with delivery) from Fish River Truffles near Bathurst (use code Roberta20 to save 20%). If you don’t have any truffles (or violets), use this recipe as a base for ice cream flavoured with vanilla, cinnamon or any other spice. As their volatile components are hardier than those of truffles, add them to the milk when heating it, set the heated mixture aside to infuse for 30 minutes, then reheat and remove the spice before adding it to the egg mixture. It’s important when making custard that you stir constantly over a low enough heat to create a smooth sauce rather than scrambled eggs (see video below for a step-by-step guide). Because they’re both such wonderful winter treats, I often serve my black truffle ice cream with poached quinces. A glass of Pikes First Cut dessert riesling from the Clare Valley takes the combination to the next level, and is just as delicious with either the quinces or the truffle ice cream on their own.

Serves 6–8 (makes about 800ml)

Ingredients
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 90g castor sugar (3¼oz/5 tablespoons)
  • 310ml full cream milk (1¼ cups)
  • ¼ cup glucose syrup (60ml)
  • 20g black truffle (¾oz)
  • 250ml single cream (1 cup), chilled
Method
  1. Place egg yolks and half the sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whisk until it’s pale and thick enough to momentarily hold the shape of a ribbon of mixture trailed across the surface.
  2. Meanwhile, combine milk, glucose and remaining sugar in a heavy-based saucepan over medium–high heat and bring to a simmer.
  3. With the mixer running on a low speed, slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture; I find this easiest if I first pour the milk mixture into a jug.
  4. Whisk just long enough to thoroughly combine.
  5. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve into the saucepan and stir constantly over a low–medium heat for about 5 minutes, without boiling, until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
  6. Remove from heat and stir for another minute or so to ensure it’s cooled a little.
  7. Grate in the truffle, cover and set aside for 30 minutes.
  8. Stir in the cold cream, transfer to an ice cream machine and churn until thick.
  9. Transfer black truffle ice cream to a container, press a cartouche cut from baking paper onto the surface, cover and place in the freezer until needed.

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Crème Anglaise (Custard)

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