Bern is my favourite Swiss city. I love its old town centre, built around the River Aare in medieval times. According to legend, it was named for the first animal the founding duke encountered on his hunt: a bear.
Today the UNESCO-listed Altstadt (‘old town’) retains much of its medieval charm, and a walking food tour around it feels like a stroll through time: from the wonderfully ornate medieval clock tower (Zytglogge), past the Gothic cathedral (Münster), to the elaborate 16th century fountains and beautifully restored Kornhauskeller. I’ve visited Bern many times with my Swiss husband, Franz, who grew up there. Here are the things we love most about it, the food of course but so much more. This is our insiders’ guide to getting the most out of Switzerland’s federal city.
Stay Bellevue Palace
This Belle Époque hotel at the top of the old town, beside the Swiss parliament house, hosts politicians, diplomats, heads of commerce and visiting celebrities. I love its fabulous views of the Alps and the Aare river, its atmospheric front bar and gorgeous leadlight ceiling in the lobby. And it’s close to all Bern’s best food shops, cafés and restaurants.
Eat Harmonie
My first meal in Bern is always fondue with a mâche salad (nüsslisalat in Swiss German) and quarter carafe of Swiss white wine at this casual eatery that’s been serving the Bernese for over 100 years. It’s the perfect lunch spot on our Bern food tour as it has all the Swiss classics, including excellent rösti and some very calorie-laden desserts.
Drink Kornhauskeller Bar
The old city of Bern is lined with underground cellars, many of which have been turned into bars. By far the most beautiful is the wonderfully-restored Kornhauskeller. The 18th century grain store, with its magnificent vaulted ceiling covered in frescoes, is truly breathtaking! The bar occupies a mezzanine balcony overlooking the fine dining restaurant below with beautiful parquetry floors and ornate columns.
Do Zytglogge Tour
The 800-year-old clock tower is Bern’s most distinctive landmark. People gather to watch the elaborate moving puppets, including a golden rooster who crows three times, Chronos turning his hourglass, a tricky jester who strikes the hour a little early, and the golden man at the top striking his bell. It’s all driven by an ancient cog-wheeled mechanism inside and a guided tour of this also gives a fascinating birds-eye view of the historic centre.
Shop Kramgasse
Due to its extensive covered walkways, among the longest in Europe, Bern is a great place for shopping in any weather. Start at the Zytglogge at the top of Kramgasse (the main street) and browse your way down to the Bärengraben at the bottom of the hill. Stop for a snack along the way at the various confiseurs including Tschirren and Eichenberger (home of excellent hazelnut lebkuchen), both of which are over 100-years-old.
Updated 26 Nov 2024
