Venice holds a place in the heart of Italophiles the world over. Yet few of its millions of visitors take time to appreciate Venice in context. To really understand it, you need to see Venice within the context of the Veneto region and its neighbouring provinces of Padua, Treviso, Vicenza, Verona and Rovigo.
With land always at a premium on the lagoon islands, the nobility once built their farms and summer houses on the fertile plains of neighbouring Padua. This province, intricately woven into the history of the Venetian Republic, is now just 30 minutes east of Venice by train. An hour northwest of Venice brings you to Treviso, where Conegliano and Valdobbiadene are at the heart of the finest Prosecco appellation, a magical landscape of UNESCO-listed vineyard-covered hills. Further west, the province of Vicenza is the birthplace of grappa and famous for its Renaissance architecture, especially the many Palladian villas, while Verona is home to the great red wines of Valpolicella. South of Venice – nestled between the Adige and Po rivers, bordering Emilia-Romagna – is the often overlooked province of Rovigo. Rovigo contains much of the fertile Po Delta, a tranquil waterway full of wild birds, fascinating history and agricultural abundance, as well as Italy’s main source of clams. Next time you’re visiting northeastern Italy, take a few days to explore Padua, Treviso, Vicenza, Verona and Rovigo; it’ll put Venice in context and make your next visit to that unique city so much more rewarding.
Stay Ca’ de Memi
This farmhouse B&B on the edge of a small town in Padua is the ideal base for exploring Veneto. It’s run by Giulia and her mother Michela and has been in their family for generations. The large garden and orchard surrounding it provide much of the produce for their table. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and well-decorated, staff are full of local knowledge, and it’s obvious that you are a guest in a family home.
Coffee Caffè Commercio
Piombino Dese, where Ca’ de Memi is located, has several good cafés. Friendly Stella at Caffè Commercio is always keen to practice her English with customers and makes great Illy caffé, while nearby Pasticceria San Giuseppe has an impressive selection of pastries. Both are on the main street a short walk from Ca’ de Memi and ideal for grabbing a cappuccino or espresso after your ‘caffè della moka’ with breakfast at the B&B.
Dinner Locanda Aurilia
This 150-year-old country inn, a few minutes drive from Memi’s, is always packed with tables of families and friends enjoying themselves. Aurilia is known for its wine cellar and old world charm and dinner here is a memorable experience. There are some very interesting regional dishes for offal lovers and plenty for less adventurous diners too. Just show enough restraint to enjoy one of the most amazing cheese trolleys you’ll ever see.
Lunch Cantina Mediterraneo
This rustic restaurant in the small Treviso town of Badoere is within the porticoes of a 17th century piazza that once housed the estate’s workshops, stores, and worker accommodation. The interior is smarter than the outside suggests and full of locals; it’s clearly off the tourist trail. Snack or feast on local dishes as you please, but it’s hard to go past the risotto. Staff are helpful and wine recommendations are spot on.
Drink Grapperia Nardini
Bassano del Grappa, in Vicenza, is the picturesque town for which one of Italy’s most famous drinks is named. At the entrance to the covered Palladium-designed Ponte degli Alpini, which offers gorgeous views across the Brenta River to the Venetian Pre-Alps (pictured above), you’ll find the Nardini bar. Founded in 1779 it’s Italy’s oldest grappa bar and the ideal place to enjoy a nip before visiting the nearby Poli Grappa Museum.
Produce De Tacchi Rice Farm
Rice, especially vialone nano, is an important ingredient in the cuisine of the risotto-loving Veneto. This family-owned farm produces vialone nano and carnaroli rice, cornmeal, and gluten free pasta, as well as suppling maize to a local artisanal brewer to make two traditional American-style corn beers. The farm is open to visitors by appointment and a great opportunity to understanding rice’s journey from field to plate.
Explore Po Delta Boat Trip
The Po Delta south of Venice is a fascinating waterway best explored by boat, and Niky Penini is the ideal guide. He’s passionate and knowledgeable about the unique environment that has been his family’s home for generations – its history, geography, local wildlife, and the threats it faces. A day on the water with Niky is educational and enjoyable, especially an aperitivo stop on the wild Spiaggia dei Gabbiani (Beach of the Seagulls).
