Home to one of Italy’s most iconic red wines – Valpolicella – and one of its most popular whites – Soave, the province of Verona in Veneto borders Lake Garda (and Lombardy) in the west and German-influenced Trentino-Alto Adige in the northeast.
Most of Verona province is rolling green hills covered in vineyards, olive groves and cherry orchards, and then there are the dramatic slopes of Monte Lessini in the north. Verona is a food and wine lovers delight. As well as being served alongside them, the bold red wines of Valpolicella are used in regional dishes like risotto all’Amarone and eggs poached in Valpolicella. Just over an hour’s drive from Venice, the Verona province is a great addition to any visit to La Serenissima and a relaxing destination in its own right. To really appreciate Venice, it’s worth taking a few days to explore Verona and the wider Veneto region. Here’s my quick guide to the province of Verona: where to stay, eat and drink in Verona, including my favourite Valpolicella and Soave wineries.
Stay Massimago Cantina & Wine Relais
This charming winery B&B in the heart of Valpolicella produces excellent Amarone and Ripasso as well as wines from lesser known grapes. Rooms look out over the surrounding vine-and-olive-covered hillsides and the estate’s organic garden, which produces 85% of the ingredients for its menus (making a breakfast a treat). A guided wine tasting in Massimago’s atmospheric cellar is the perfect way to learn about Valpolicella.
Dinner Trattoria La Torre
This elegant trattoria, tucked in the cellar of a 13th century church just a few minutes from Massimago, oozes atmosphere with exposed stone walls and a curved ceiling of handmade bricks. La Torre is the perfect place to enjoy the harmony of local cuisine and wine. Bigoli (thick local spaghetti) with duck ragù is a great pairing for Valpolicella Ripasso and poached egg in aged cheese sauce with crisp guanciale is delicious with an Amarone.
Lunch Ostaria Trattoria Castel
This rustic eatery, in a sleepy village of the German-influenced Lessinia highlands, is well worth the short detour off the Valpolicella wine route. While locals grab a workday lunch of panini and beer in the front bar, settle into the adjoining dining room for great views and Germanic fare such as excellent speck (smoked prosciutto) cured in Valpolicella wine and canederli (salumi, cheese and bread dumplings) in porcini sauce.
Drink Suavia
High on a terraced hillside in the Italian pre-Alps, Alessandra Tessari and her sisters are restoring the reputation of Veneto’s most popular white wine: Soave. While the valley floor makes bulk wine for export, the sorelle Tessari produce far more complex and delicious wines from Soave Classico vines grown at 300m! The view from their beautiful tasting room puts their distinctive wines in context and the drive up there is an adventure in itself.
Drive Valpolicella Wine Route
Take a few days to explore the Strada del Vino Valpolicella which consists of multiple itineraries rather than one cohesive route. As well as delicious wines, there are cherry orchards, olive groves and beautiful villas to discover. My favourite section is from Grezzana to San Mauro di Saline in the north east. Here the wild Lessinia highlands, settled by Bavarians in the 13th century, still have traces of German food, culture and place names.
