Sant’Erasmo, in the Venetian lagoon between Murano and Burano, is the vegetable garden of Venice. It’s also home to Osti in Orto (‘innkeepers in the garden’), an exciting initiative by 19 Venetian restaurateurs growing their own produce.
Not surprisingly, they also run some of the best restaurants in Venice. Apart from their obvious passion for produce, I love their collaborative spirit and determination to keep showing the very best food and hospitality Venice has to offer in the face of 20 million visitors a year, almost 80% of whom come for the day, take some photos, leave some rubbish, and go away without scratching the surface of this unique city. Looking for great places to eat in Venice? Head to any of the restaurants in the Buona Accoglienza Association (literally ‘good reception’), where you’ll certainly receive a warm welcome, fabulous food, wine and hospitality. Here are a few of my favourites.
Trattoria Del Local Castello
This buzzing little spot, on a tiny piazza a few minutes from San Marco, is a genuine ‘local’ for the neighbourhood and visitors (many of whom come year after year). It’s warm, inviting and unpretentious with delicious food and drinks (including some great vermouths and acquavite) and beautiful service. I especially love the baccalà mantecato. Benadetta Fullin and husband Manuel also own Michelin-starred Local nearby.
Osteria alle Testiere Castello
Like most of the Osti in Orto restaurants, tiny, seafood-focused Testiere is a Venice icon. Bruno Gavagnin has a light touch with the lagoon’s seafood, all of it cooked to the perfect point of texture and flavour. It’s hard to impress an Aussie with prawns, but his gamberoni with coriander, ginger and lime butter saw me ‘scarpetta-ing’ up every last drop of the delicious sauce. Full marks to the artichoke and ricotta ravioli with scallops too.
Ristorante Wildner Castello
Luca Fullin grew up in the hotel his family has run since the ’60s. Today it’s his baby, especially the restaurant overlooking bustling Riva degli Schiavoni. President of the Osti in Orto project, Luca has his finger on the pulse of the best his island home offers, from new season castraure artichokes to the rare seasonal treat of moeche, Venice’s famed soft shell crabs. Thankfully monkfish and scampi “alla Carlina” (pictured) is always on the menu.
Pietra Rossa Castello
The 3-course set menu with paired wines at this relaxed, engaging, delicious restaurant proves you don’t have to spend a fortune to dine very well in Venice. Andrea Lorenzon is a fabulous host and, as with all his Osti in Orto ‘confratelli’, incredibly passionate about the Sant’Erasmo project. Pinzimonio (raw vegetables) from the garden is a great showcase for seasonal produce and I love the linguini with cavolo nero pesto, almonds and bottarga.
Estro Dorsoduro
This comfortable space is the work of Muranesi brothers Alberto (chef) and Dario (sommelier). Smart without being formal, it has a great vibe and beautiful glassware by young Murano artisans. There’s a strong wine focus and friendly staff who really know their stuff. Food moves between land and sea, including some great goat dishes like superb reginette pasta with hand-cut kid ragù and spring peas – plate lickingly good.
Vini da Gigio Cannaregio
I discovered this neighbourhood restaurant years ago while roaming the back of the island, and it’s been my go-to on every visit to Venice since. Son Nicolò now works alongside his parents Paolo and Laura serving simple plates of superb seafood such as super tender octopus salad; zucchini flowers stuffed with baccalà mantecato; and excellent grilled eel with caponata. Lemony sgroppino is the perfect finish to a great Venetian meal.
Trattoria Anzolo Raffaele Dorsoduro
On a quiet piazza in residential Dorsoduro, Sardinian-born Luigi Secchi combines his heritage with the produce and traditions of Venice in a short menu that sees pane frattau (pane carasau ‘lasagne’) sit alongside excellent Venetian liver with polenta. The interior is rustic, the service cheeky (in a good way) and the dessert of gorgonzola semifreddo with pear conserve and pink peppercorns is one of the best things I’ve ever eaten.
Published 08 April 2026
