Everyone says Venice is expensive, but that’s not my experience, at least not for eating and drinking. My top tip for enjoying one of my favourite cities at a good price is to go in winter or early spring when it’s relatively tourist-free.
Stay in the best hotel you can afford (preferably on the Grand Canal) and eat in the simplest, out-of-the-way, holes-in-the-wall you can find (often in Cannaregio at the back of the island where many of the real Venetians live). Usually called bacari (bars) or osterie, these great value eats are everywhere. But to get you started here are a few of my favourite cheap eats in Venice along with a couple of not-to-be-missed experiences that are slightly dearer but still great value.
Al Mercà San Polo
Al Mercà is a favourite with locals for a late breakfast or early lunch after visiting nearby Rialto Market. A hole-in-the-wall with a few stools, excellent coffee, grappa and tiny panini (meltingly sweet lardo on crunchy little rolls is my pick). Don’t let the time of day stop you from enjoying a glass of local red wine, after all ‘when in Venice …’
Trattoria da’a Marisa Cannaregio
Named for Madama Marisa, a well-known 1930s prostitute (and sporting some of her advertising as decoration), this tiny out-of-the-way spot simply serves antipasto then offers a limited spoken menu of pasta and secondi, finishing with whatever dolci they have. A true Venetian cheap eat, great value and a great experience!
Vini da Gigio Cannaregio
Several adjoining rooms with ancient-looking walls, packed with locals every night, this family-run restaurant is slightly more formal (so dearer) than the local bars and osterie, yet still friendly and excellent value. Have the crudo (raw seafood) and razor clams from the lagoon, and explore the wonderful wine list.
Bar Ducale San Marco
On my first visit to Venice, I asked the hotel concierge where he goes for coffee, not where he sends the tourists. He told me to go around the corner to Bar Ducale, adding that it’s also where the gondoliers go for their coffees. And I’ve been coming here ever since, particularly for the soft, white crustless tramezzini sandwiches.
Harry’s Bar San Marco
While it isn’t exactly cheap, a bellini and croque monsieur at the counter of Harry’s Bar is an affordable way to experience this Venetian institution. It was opened in 1931 by the Cipriani family, declared a national landmark by the Italian government, frequented by royals, artists and celebrities, and is open Sundays when many others are closed.
Trattoria al Gatto Nero Burano
This traditional trattoria on the colourful island of Burano features seafood fresh from the lagoon. Excellent value antipasto is so large it comes on several plates, almost a meal in itself with the likes of king scallops in a slightly spicy tomato sauce, steamed mantis prawns, baccalà of snapper and tiny grey prawns atop grilled squares of white polenta. Finish with excellent tiramisu.
Updated 22 Dec 2023
