One of Puglia’s most popular dishes – riso, patate e cozze (or ‘ris, patan e strazz’ in dialect) originated around Bari in the 16th century during the Spanish rule in southern Italy. It’s a layered dish of rice-stuffed mussels surrounded by delicious potato, and also known as tiella Barese after the city of Bari and the dish in which it’s traditionally baked and served. The tiella is traditionally made from terracotta, but can also be enamel, ceramic or metal. I use an ovenproof cast-iron frying pan which works very well. Apart from the riso, patate e cozze (rice, potato and mussels) listed in the recipe title, tielle Barese always contains small tomatoes and a generous amount of Pecorino Romano to enhance the savouriness of the mussels. Serve a Southern Italian tomato & bread salad alongside your tiella Barese (see video below) and a glass of negramaro, one of Puglia’s most popular grapes. I love the version from Coriole in McLaren Vale, it has a lovely hint of spice and a nice acid finish to balance the richness of this dish.

Serves 2

Ingredients
  • 16 blue mussels, scrubbed (about 450g)
  • Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
  • ½ brown onion, finely diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 100g arborio rice (3½oz)
  • 250g Dutch cream potato, peeled and finely sliced (9oz)
  • 100g cherry or grape tomatoes, cut into quarters or eighths (3½oz)
  • Handful flat-leaf parsley leaves and fine stems, finely sliced (about 15g/½oz)
  • 35g freshly grated Pecorino Romano (1¼oz)
  • Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Method
  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
  2. Shuck the mussels over a bowl to catch the liquor (details here). Cover mussels and refrigerate until ready to use.
  3. Strain liquor into a jug and set aside.
  4. Rinse the rice well under running water. Set aside to drain.
  5. Generously oil a 25cm (10″) round baking dish.
  6. Scatter half the onion and half the garlic over the base.
  7. Arrange half the potato on top, then dot with half the tomato.
  8. Sprinkle with a third of the Pecorino and a third of the parsley, then salt and pepper (remembering that the Pecorino and mussel juice are salty).
  9. Drizzle with oil then arrange the mussel shells on top in a single layer with the meat facing up.
  10. Scatter half the remaining Pecorino and half the remaining parsley over them, then more salt and pepper.
  11. Sprinkle rice evenly over the mussels.
  12. Scatter with remaining onion and garlic, half the remaining tomatoes and half the remaining parsley.
  13. Sprinkle with more salt and pepper and drizzle with oil.
  14. Add a little more Pecorino then arrange the remaining potato on top and dot with remaining tomato.
  15. Scatter with remaining parsley and Pecorino, sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with oil.
  16. Pour about 1 cup of the mussel liquor gently down the sides of the dish, so as not to disturb anything, leaving any sediment behind.
  17. Pour in enough water to bring the liquid up to just below the top level of potato.
  18. Place in the oven for 40–50 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and the top is golden and crisp, using the overhead grill for the last few minutes if need be to get a good colour.
  19. Remove from oven, cover with a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm place for 5 minutes.
  20. Serve tiella Barese warm with big serviettes and a bowl for the empty mussel shells.

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Janet (Tamworth, NSW, Australia)
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Deb (Belconnen, ACT, Australia)
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Mark (Elizabeth Bay, NSW, Australia)
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Karen (Bowral, NSW, Australia)
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