There’s nothing like a quick and easy stir-fry when you’re short on time; this one is inspired by a recipe from chef Mark Jensen of Vietnamese restaurant Red Lantern in Darlinghurst, Sydney. I make it with Goolwa pipis from South Australia as I usually have a bag in the freezer for quick meals, but this simple marinade makes everything taste great so use any bivalves or crustaceans, such as blue mussels, vongole or prawns. Pipis are usually sold ‘purged’ to remove any sand or grit, however if you buy them loose it’s still a good idea to place them in a large bowl of cool water and natural salt for several hours or overnight to get rid of any remaining sand. Use 30g salt/litre water (1oz salt/2 pints water) and place them in a cool place at room temperature, if you refrigerate them they’ll close up and won’t ‘spit out’ the sand. Packaged pipis and other clams are already purged and best refrigerated in their sealed bag until ready to use and mussels don’t require purging. If I have leftover cooked rice in the fridge I often make a Red Rice Cake to serve with these pipis, but steamed rice works well too; Vietnamese pickles are also a great accompaniment (see video below). I find a glass of Vigna del Cristo – a dry, pale pink Lambrusco di Sorbara from Emilia-Romagna – works particularly well with the spice in this easy dish of pipis with lemongrass.

Serves 2–4

Ingredients
  • 4 stalks lemongrass, white part only finely grated
  • 4 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 1 tablespoon Vietnamese pickled ground chilli
    (or chilli paste like sambal oelek)
  • ⅓ cup vegetable oil (80ml)
  • ¼ cup fish sauce (60ml)
  • 1 tablespoon castor sugar (18g/⅔oz)
  • 1kg pipis, purged (2lb 3oz)
  • Steamed jasmine rice, for serving
Method
  1. Combine lemongrass, garlic, chilli, oil, fish sauce and sugar in a large bowl.
  2. Add pipis, toss to coat well, cover and set aside at room temperature for 30–60 minutes.
  3. Heat a wok or large frying pan over high heat.
  4. Add pipis and marinade, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for a couple of minutes, until shells start to open.
  5. As each shell opens, remove it to a bowl. You may need to cover the pan for another 30 seconds or so to encourage the remainder to open. Once most are open, hold any unopened ones over the sink and use a blunt knife (such as a butter knife) to pry them open. If they smell good, they’re fine to eat, otherwise discard them.
  6. Serve with plenty of steamed rice; the sauce can be quite salty if it’s taken a while for the pipis to open, so start with a little and add more to taste.

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