Primo sale is a fresh Italian cheese, sometimes aged for a few weeks, sometimes resembling ricotta or cottage cheese. Traditionally it’s made from sheep milk though some versions today use cow milk or a mixture of cow, sheep and/or goat milk. The name means ‘first salting’ because the salt is added to the milk before it’s formed into curds and whey; typically it’s added later in the cheesemaking process. At Pilu at Freshwater, chef Giovanni Pilu makes a ricotta-like primo sale to serve as a snack with aperitivi. The milk is curdled with calcium lactate, available from health food stores and online; the same substance that often occurs as small crunchy crystals in aged hard cheeses. You’ll need muslin (or a similar thin cloth) to strain the cheese; a probe thermometer is handy too. While this fresh style of primo sale is best eaten the day it’s made, it keeps refrigerated for at least a week (I leave it wrapped in its cheesecloth). If you can’t find calcium lactate or don’t want to make your own cheese, serve a good ricotta (like the ones from Vannella) in the same way.

Makes about 400g/14oz (serves 6 as a starter)

Ingredients
  • 1 litre full-cream milk (2 US pints)
  • 300ml single cream (1¼ cups)
  • 1 teaspoon salt flakes, crushed, plus extra for sprinkling
  • 1 tablespoon (12g/½oz) calcium lactate powder
  • Pane carasau (carta di musica), for serving
  • Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing
  • Honey, for drizzling
Method
  1. Combine milk, cream and salt in a saucepan over a low heat, stirring occasionally until it reaches 80–85°C (175–185°F); a digital thermometer is the best way to measure this, but if you don’t have one it’s the point where some steam just starts to appear.
  2. Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, sprinkle in the calcium lactate.
  3. Increase heat to medium and bring to the boil.
  4. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes; it will separate into curds and whey.
  5. Scoop curds into a muslin-lined strainer and leave to drain until cool.
  6. Twist muslin to squeeze the curds lightly then refrigerate for at least an hour (overnight is fine).
  7. Remove cheese from the fridge 20–30 minutes before serving.
  8. Preheat oven to 180°C (355°F).
  9. Place pane carasau on a baking tray, brush with oil, sprinkle with salt and place in the oven for 5–8 minutes, until lightly coloured.
  10. Place a scoop of cheese on a plate, drizzle with honey and serve with pane carasau on the side.

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Primo Sale Cheese (Ricotta-Style)

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