Classic French bisque gets its flavour from the shells (mainly the heads) of shellfish, making it a very inexpensive soup. You can make bisque from any crustacean – crabs, lobsters, freshwater crayfish (such as yabbies and marrons) – but prawn bisque (bisque de crevettes in French) is the most popular. Whenever I peel prawns (shrimp) for a dish, I freeze the shells and heads until I have enough to make this delicious soup. I’m fascinated by the way words change meaning over time; Escoffier suggests the word bisque, which has been in use for many centuries, may indicate origins in the Spanish province of Biscay. It originally referred to a highly spiced dish of boiled meat or game. Later bisque was made from game birds – such as pigeon or quail – and garnished with crayfish. By the 17th century, bisque had evolved into a crayfish soup, and shortly afterwards other shellfish were also used. You’ll need the shells from about 1kg (2lb 3oz) of medium-large prawns (shrimp) to make this prawn bisque. Prawn heads oxidise quickly once they’re thawed (see video below), so I usually add them straight from the freezer, cover the pan and cook them over low heat for an extra 5 minutes or so, breaking up the block regularly with a wooden spoon until the shells separate, then continue with the recipe. Prawn bisque is often garnished with a drizzle of cream, try it with creamy stracciatella cheese for a delicious variation. Then pour a glass of savoury rosé, such as XO Wine Co.’s delicious Games Night grenache-barbera blend, and enjoy!

Serves 6 as a starter

Ingredients
  • 50g salted butter (1¾oz)
  • 1 red onion, finely chopped
  • Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
  • 550g green prawn shells (1lb 3½oz)
  • ¼ cup plain flour (35g/1¼oz)
  • 1 cup dry white vermouth or dry white wine (250ml)
  • 400g Italian canned tomatoes, crushed (14oz)
  • 1 litre water (2 pints)
  • ⅓ cup single cream (80ml)
  • A few chives, finely sliced
  • 250g stracciatella
Method
  1. Melt butter in a large saucepan over low heat.
  2. Add onion and 1 teaspoon salt, cover and cook for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but not coloured.
  3. Add prawn shells, increase heat to medium and fry for about 6 minutes, until they turn red all over, regularly crushing them well with a potato masher or wooden spoon.
  4. Add flour and stir for 3 minutes, continuing to crush the shells.
  5. Add vermouth and stir, scraping the base of the pan well. Cook for a minute or so until it boils and thickens slightly.
  6. Reduce heat, add tomato and cook for 3 minutes, crushing often.
  7. Stir in water and return to the boil.
  8. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.
  9. Strain into a clean saucepan, pushing through a fine sieve to extract as much liquid as possible.
  10. Stir in cream and return to a simmer.
  11. Taste, add salt and pepper, and serve garnished with chives and stracciatella.

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