Pistou is the Provençal cousin of Liguria’s pesto, though it doesn’t contain any cheese or nuts and – unlike a classic pesto alla Genovese – the garlic in pistou packs a real punch. On its own as a dip for crudités this Provençal pesto is a treat best reserved for those who love the pepperiness of raw garlic, but when pistou is stirred into a soup the flavour mellows and has a much broader appeal. You can make it in a small food processor, but I prefer the texture of pistou pounded by hand in a stone mortar. Provençal olive oil has a delicate flavour, similar to that of neighbouring Liguria; if you only have a more robust oil, use half of that and half of a neutral vegetable oil. Like pesto, pistou can be stored to add a bright note to many dishes; refrigerate in a sterilised jar with a thin layer of oil on top to prevent it oxidising. If you’re planning on storing pistou, it’s best to remove the germ from the centre of the garlic cloves before chopping them.
Makes about 2½ tablespoons (50ml)
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