Pesto alla Genovese

Although pesto means ‘to pound’, the classic Ligurian pesto alla Genovese, from the port city of Genoa, is traditionally made by crushing – rather than pounding – the ingredients in a marble mortar using a wooden pestle. Crushing the basil this way releases the maximum aroma and flavour and allows the cook to smell each ingredient as it’s added. As each batch of basil, garlic, and even cheese, is slightly different, making the pesto this way enables the cook to adjust quantities to taste. Today, most people use a food processor to make pesto, which is an acceptable shortcut as long as you pulse the ingredients as briefly as possible, so they don’t heat up. Every part of Liguria – possibly every Ligurian cook – has their own take on pesto alla Genovese, often varying the amount of garlic and the ratio and sharpness of the cheeses. Sometimes different herbs are added and walnuts are used instead of pine nuts. Basil pesto from near the Tuscan border is very delicate, made with the smallest basil leaves and just a hint of garlic. This is the way my friend Lucio Galletto, who comes from this area, taught me to make pesto. Scroll down for a video and Lucio’s tips on making pesto alla Genovese. If you can, buy pots of living basil as the leaves are smaller than in most bunches. Further north, near the French border, the pesto is often more garlic heavy, like its fiery Provençal cousin pistou.

Makes about ½ cup (serves 4 as a pasta sauce)