The Po Delta in north-eastern Emilia-Romagna is the ideal place for growing rice, including the highly-prized carnaroli rice that most chefs prefer for risotto. Ducks also love the waterways of the Po Delta, and further inland, in the foothills and mountains of the Apennine range, you’ll find Europe’s most famous porcini mushrooms growing around Borgo Val di Taro. So it seems natural to combine all three in this delicious dish. It’s quite easy to make duck breast with porcini risotto, even though there are three pans on the stove at once and you’ll need a couple of timers. If you’re worried about cooking the duck and risotto at the same time, you could cook the duck first (undercooking it slightly) then keep it warm in a low oven while you cook the risotto. I’ve learnt a thing or two about making risotto from my friend Alessandro Pavoni (see video below), and one of the most surprising lessons was that you don’t have to stir it constantly. So follow my steps and you’ll be fine cooking duck breast and porcini risotto all at once!

Serves 2

Ingredients
  • 30g dried porcini mushrooms (1oz)
  • 750ml hot tap water (3 cups)
  • 1 x 200g duck breast fillet, skin on (7oz)
  • Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
  • 1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (30ml)
  • 1 golden shallot, finely chopped
  • 150g carnaroli rice (5¼oz)
  • ¼ cup dry white wine (60ml)
  • 2 tablespoon freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano (10g)
  • 25g cold butter, diced (6 teaspoons)
Method
  1. Place porcini in the hot water and set aside for 30 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, pat duck skin dry then use a very sharp knife to cut fine diagonal score marks through the skin in a criss-cross pattern, without cutting into the meat. Salt generously.
  3. Place skin side-down in a frying pan and set aside for 30 minutes (up to 1 hour is fine).
  4. Heat oil in a high-sided frying pan over medium heat, add shallot and a good pinch of salt, cover and cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but not coloured. Remove from heat, cover and set aside.
  5. Remove mushrooms from the water and squeeze over the bowl to extract as much liquid as possible.
  6. Pour soaking water into a small saucepan, leaving any sediment in the bowl.
  7. Place over medium heat; as soon as it starts to simmer reduce heat to low.
  8. Meanwhile, slice mushrooms and set aside.
  9. Return frying pan with the shallot to a medium heat, add rice, increase heat to high and stir for a minute or 2, until the grains are hot and well coated in oil.
  10. Add wine and cook for 30–60 seconds without stirring, just shaking the pan to combine, until most of the liquid has been absorbed.
  11. Reduce heat to medium, add enough of the mushroom soaking water to cover the rice well.
  12. Cook for 8 minutes, without stirring, adding more soaking water as it starts to be absorbed and gently shaking the pan to combine.
  13. Meanwhile place duck over medium–high heat and cook for about 5 minutes, until skin is golden, pouring off the fat as it melts (you can use this to make duck fat potatoes).
  14. Turn duck over, reduce temperature to medium, and cook for a further 7–10 minutes depending on thickness; until internal temperature registers 55°C/130°F on a probe thermometer for medium rare or 60°C/140°F for medium.
  15. Remove duck to a plate, skin side up, and set aside in a warm place.
  16. Meanwhile, after rice has been cooking for 8 minutes, increase heat to medium–high, add mushroom and start gently stirring, adding more liquid a ladleful at a time as each lot is absorbed.
  17. Stirring constantly, cook for a further 8–10 minutes, until rice is tender but still has some bite.
  18. Stir in salt and add another ladle of stock (or boiling water if all the stock has been used).
  19. Remove from heat, add pepper, Parmigiano and butter, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until all the butter and cheese is incorporated, adding a little more liquid if necessary to keep it moist and soupy.
  20. Taste, add more salt if needed, then cover and set aside for a minute or 2.
  21. Meanwhile, slice duck breast.
  22. Spoon risotto onto warmed flat plates, tapping them on a tea towel-covered bench to spread the risotto out.
  23. Top with duck breast and serve.

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