Baps (Scottish Morning Rolls)

Name: Baps
Yield: 6
Cuisine: Scottish
Ingredients: 3.5g dried yeast (½ packet/1 teaspoon); Pinch castor sugar; 90ml lukewarm water (1/3 cup+2 teaspoons); 2 cups plain flour, plus extra for dusting (300g/10 1/2 oz); 1 teaspoon salt flakes, crushed; 25g cold butter, diced (1oz/5 teaspoons); 90ml milk (at room temperature), plus extra for brushing (1/3 cup+2 teaspoons); Vegetable oil, for coating

I have a wonderful memory of being at my Auntie Mary’s house in Glasgow and scurrying down the road early one morning to buy beautifully soft floury baps from the local baker for our breakfast (the scurry was necessary as it was very cold)! A typical Scots breakfast is fried egg, bacon, black pudding, tattie (potato) scones and, especially on Sundays, these pillowy white rolls. Also known as morning rolls or softies, baps are perfect for an egg and bacon roll or – apart from breakfast – for dunking into soups and casseroles. Traditionally they were made with lard I suspect, but butter’s more convenient today and I prefer its flavour. Because the dough must be well kneaded to get the lightest result, I usually let an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook do the hard work for me. My recipe is based on one by Scottish food writer and historical novelist, Sue Lawrence; if you want baps fresh out of the oven for breakfast (the best way), Sue suggests proving the dough in the fridge overnight then shaping the rolls the next morning. Leftover baps can be reheated in the oven wrapped in foil and toast well too.

Makes 6

Ingredients

3.5g dried yeast (½ packet/1 teaspoon)
Pinch castor sugar
90ml lukewarm water (⅓ cup+2 teaspoons)
2 cups plain flour, plus extra for dusting (300g/10½oz)
1 teaspoon salt flakes, crushed
25g cold butter, diced (1oz/5 teaspoons)
90ml milk (at room temperature), plus extra for brushing (⅓ cup+2 teaspoons)
Vegetable oil, for coating

Method

Place yeast and sugar in a small bowl with a tablespoon of the warm water and set aside in a warm place for 10 minutes or so until it froths.
Meanwhile, sift flour into a bowl.
Add salt and butter and use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until it disappears.
Make a well in the centre and pour in the yeast mixture, remaining water and milk.
Use a spatula to fold the flour into the liquid to form a firm dough.
Either use an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook to knead for 3–5 minutes, or turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand for 5–8 minutes, until smooth and elastic.
Shape into a ball, coat lightly in oil, place into a clean bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place for an hour or so, until doubled in size or, if preparing the evening before for breakfast, refrigerate overnight.
Place dough onto a lightly floured work surface and divide into 6 even pieces.
Shape each piece into a ball by stretching the dough down and tucking it underneath the base of it to give a smooth surface.
Place on a baking paper-lined baking tray, seam side down, with plenty of space between them.
Cover lightly with a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm place for about 30 minutes, until well risen.
Meanwhile preheat oven to 220°C (430°F).
Use the heel of your hand to gently press the rolls down, slightly flattening them.
Brush the tops lightly with milk and dust generously with flour.
Bake for about 15 minutes (start checking after 10 minutes), until well coloured and hollow sounding when the base is tapped.
Transfer baps to a wire rack to cool slightly then serve warm.