Fettuccine Alfredo is the simplest of pasta dishes, and the one that proves the supreme importance of pasta cooking water as the secret ingredient in any pasta sauce. This classic Italian pasta is named for Alfredo di Lelio, a Roman restaurateur who popularised it at Ristorante Alfredo in the 1920s, where it was theatrically prepared tableside. Today his grandchildren run the second iteration of his restaurant, Il Vero Alfredo, still serving their Nonno’s famous pasta. Pasta with butter and cheese is nothing new of course and has long been known as fettuccine al burro or, when very rich, fettuccine al triplo burro (fettuccine with triple butter). Call it what you will, what makes pasta Alfredo more than just buttered noodles with cheese is the emulsifying magic of the starchy pasta cooking water. Many of my Italian chef friends call it the ‘secret sauce’ as adding a little to any pasta gives a lovely creamy sheen. For traditional fettuccine Alfredo you’ll use up to 1 cup of pasta cooking water to emulsify the butter and cheese into a smooth, creamy sauce that clings to every strand of fettuccine. It’s also the only seasoning the dish needs, so be sure to add enough salt to the water (see video below for all you need to know about cooking pasta like a Nonna). In America, pasta Alfredo has evolved into a different recipe containing cream, which is never used in authentic Italian fettuccine Alfredo. So you’ll need to decide whether you’re making the classic Italian version, or the newer American one. I suggest trying Italian fettuccine Alfredo first and then deciding if it really needs the cream. Aussie chardonnay is a great match for pasta Alfredo, especially one like Domaine Naturaliste Discovery from Margaret River with its buttery chardonnay nose and crisp refreshing palate.

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients
  • 250g dried fettuccine (9oz)
  • 25g cooking salt (1oz)
  • 65g butter (2⅓oz)
  • 65g Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano, finely grated (2⅓oz)
Method
  1. Place 2.5 litres (5 pints) of water in a large saucepan, add salt and bring to the boil.
  2. Add pasta and cook until just al dente, using packet instructions as a guideline.
  3. Meanwhile, melt butter in a large frying pan over low heat then set aside.
  4. When pasta is almost cooked, add ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water to the butter and simmer over a high heat, shaking the pan frequently until it’s emulsified and slightly thickened. Reduce heat to low and let it simmer.
  5. Use tongs to transfer the cooked pasta into the frying pan then turn off the saucepan’s heat.
  6. Increase heat under frying pan to medium and toss the pasta for 30 seconds or so until the butter mixture has been absorbed.
  7. Add a quarter of the cheese and another ¼ cup of pasta cooking water and continuing tossing and stirring vigorously with the tongs until well combined.
  8. Add half the remaining cheese and another ¼ cup of pasta cooking water and toss and stir until incorporated.
  9. Add most of the remaining cheese, reserving a little for garnish, and another ¼ cup or so of pasta cooking water and keep mixing to create a smooth, thick sauce coating the pasta.
  10. Transfer into warmed shallow bowls, sprinkle with remaining cheese and serve fettuccine Alfredo immediately.

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How To Cook Pasta Like A Nonna

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