Matera Food Tour

I spent a week roving all over this World Heritage-listed city in 2009, discovering the local Lucanian cuisine on my personal Matera food tour. Matera was still off the tourist trail back then, though it’s been doubling as Jerusalem in films since the early ‘60s.

Top 5 Southern Italy - regional guide (Matera)

That Aston Martin chase scene in the 2021 James Bond movie No Time To Die was the final straw. Now Matera is definitely one of southern Italy’s most visited destinations and – movie locations aside – justifiably so. The good news is, many tourists come on whirlwind day trips from neighbouring Puglia, so by spending a few days here, especially out of season, you can still experience the magic of this unique place. Matera’s physical location is stunning, clinging to the side of a deep ravine with rows of rock churches opposite. It’s been inhabited since at least the 10th century BC – making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world – and remained a troglodyte settlement until the 1950s when the cave houses carved into the soft limestone were forcibly evacuated. Today many of the original dwellings have been turned into hotels, restaurants and shops, clustered around the two historic sassi: north-facing Barisano and south-facing Caveoso. The term ‘sassi’ comes from Latin ‘saxum’, meaning hills, and the buildings of the sassi are piled atop one another over about 12 levels. Matera is a great place to discover Basilicata’s distinctive Lucanian cuisine and there’s a lot of history, culture and nature to explore on this mini Matera food tour too. Let’s go!

Matera Food Tour - Hotel Sant'Angelo

Stay Hotel Sant’Angelo
A night in this cave hotel is a bucket-list experience. It’s right in the heart of the historic centre where ancient churches and modern restaurants are all carved out of the soft ‘tufo’. Ask for a room with a view of the church of San Pietro Caveoso and the piazza named for it. The hotel’s cave restaurant is a good place to enjoy local produce and the breakfast buffet is a great experience too.

Matera Food Tour - I Due Sassi

Eat Trattoria I Due Sassi
This casual restaurant overlooking the ravine hasn’t changed a bit in 15+ years, despite Matera’s increased popularity. Cosimo still serves my all-time favourite pasta, orecchiette con cime di rapa (see video below), and plates of fried peperone crusco (the local dried mild peppers), both of which I first tasted here. And his Nonna’s chilli relish makes everything even better!

Matera Food Tour - Keiv

Drink Keiv Ristorante
Whether it’s my morning caffè or afternoon aperitivo, I love an outside table at Keiv tucked underneath the ancient church right on Piazza San Pietro Caveoso. Given its location it’s hardly surprising the menu’s a bit “fancier” now than when I first visited, but staff are still friendly, coffee’s still hot and spritzs cool. And it’s the ideal place to people watch.

Matera Food Tour - Cave House Museum

See Casa Grotta del Casalnuovo
Wandering randomly through the sassi is the best way to explore Matera, especially early morning and late afternoon when the day-trippers aren’t there. On your strolls, be sure to visit this fascinating cave house museum. A real home of the sassi, furnished as it was in 1958 when the family living there left, it’s a fascinating glimpse into relatively recent daily life; the kitchen and equipment are especially interesting for food lovers.

Matera Food Tour - Rock Churches

Walk Parco della Murgia Materana
Murgia Materana Regional Park, opposite Matera, contains over 150 rock churches and the view back to Matera is a great way to put this unique location in context. I love to walk from Matera into the ravine and across the stream to Madonna degli Angeli. The closest of the churches, it’s only about a kilometre away and can be reached in less than half an hour. You can also drive around to the park and start your exploration from there.

On my last visit to Matera I wasn’t quick enough to book an ape tour with popular local guide Vito. Don’t you make my mistake – I have him on speed dial for my next visit.

Updated 25 Jan 2025

Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa

What Other Travellers Say

Janet (Tamworth, NSW, Australia)
Janet (Tamworth, NSW, Australia)
Just back from the most amazing trip to Emilia-Romagna with Roberta. Not only the home of Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano-Reggiano & Balsamic Vinegar, but scenery to die for and more quaint and exciting restaurants and cafés than you ever imagined. And Roberta is just the person to help you discover and enjoy them! Her knowledge of the history of the region and its wonderful cuisine know no bounds and all added to the excitement of the trip. It was faultless - well organized and lots of fun!
Deb (Belconnen, ACT, Australia)
Deb (Belconnen, ACT, Australia)
Wow, what a tour – I learned so much! Awesome fun traveling through Emilia-Romagna experiencing first hand some of the produce I've worked with over the last couple of years cooking with Roberta's recipe kits – the family are reaping the benefits now. If you're thinking of joining Roberta in future years get ready for an amazing experience.
Mark (Elizabeth Bay, NSW, Australia)
Mark (Elizabeth Bay, NSW, Australia)
My wife and I recently joined Roberta's Emilia-Romagna tour. We enjoyed all the temptations offered and learned a lot about that part of Italy, especially its food and wine culture. What was most impressive was Roberta's local knowledge of people and places. The planning and effort she put into making the whole experience seem effortless was remarkable.
Karen (Bowral, NSW, Australia)
Karen (Bowral, NSW, Australia)
Our tour with Roberta through Emilia-Romagna was the highlight of the year. Good company, gorgeous palazzi and great food. What more could one ask for? Roberta's enthusiasm and knowledge made this a once in a lifetime experience through an extraordinary, diverse and very special region.
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