Alongside icons like Tyrrell’s Vat 1 and Lake’s Folly Cabernets, the offering from Australia’s oldest wine region has expanded to include some exciting new wines from young gun winemakers – many of them second-generation vignerons.
For a long time though the Hunter Valley’s food offering wasn’t keeping pace with its wines. When I was asked where to eat in the Hunter Valley, I was often short on suggestions. That’s no longer true. Here’s six of the best places to eat in the Hunter Valley – some from chefs who’ve been there for years and some new blood – all offering food, wine and service worthy of the region’s exciting wines.
Bistro Molines Mount View
Robert and Sally Molines have been feeding Hunter Valley locals and visitors for over 50 years. Their Mount View bistro feels like an auberge in the French countryside, from the sunny paved courtyard overlooking vines and groves to the classic double-clothed tables covered in plates of simple seasonal food and local wine. Whether you’re enjoy his classic charcuterie, house-smoked quail or moules marinières, save room for Robert’s tarte Tatin with cinnamon ice cream.
Boydell’s Restaurant Morpeth
Paula Rengger’s Shakey Tables was one of my favourite Hunter Valley restaurants. Now she’s turning out the same flavour-packed European fare in a wonderfully-restored colonial slab hut in Morpeth. Paula’s dishes are at once comforting and exciting, such as golden oxtail pithivier made indulgent with crisp Brussels sprout leaves, bone marrow dumplings and rich celeriac purée. Knowledgeable staff and excellent wines by the glass from Boydell’s own label complete the deal.
Lucky Duck Lovedale
This casual mod-Asian diner in a Balinese building overlooking a fish-filled lily pond (at the beautiful Leaves and Fishes resort) is just what the Hunter Valley needs. The menu wanders from Thai-inspired whole fried snapper, past Korean corn ribs, to Chinese char siu pancakes with hoi sin. Then there’s the oh-so-moreish fusion of Korean spiced chips with Manchego and lime (sounds wrong, tastes superb). Great wines by the glass, friendly service and you can feed the fish!
Pescara Pokolbin
When Nicole Panetta and Kelvin Foster left Mosman favourite DC’s for the Hunter Valley, thank goodness they brought that delicious scampi dish with them – simply split, grilled and doused in lemon butter. Pescara is smart and cosy, Nicole’s smile brings a warm welcome and Kelvin’s menu ticks all the Italian classics, from seafood pasta and polpette to tender lamb with tangy caponata and salsa verde. There’s a good range of local wines and imports, both affordable and iconic.
Yellow Billy Pokolbin
Sommelier Pat Hester and chef Sam Alexander grow around a third of their restaurant’s produce in an on-site garden, and prepare most dishes with a serious lick of flame from the fire pit or parrilla grill. The menu at this smart casual restaurant alongside Piggs Peake winery is designed for sharing, and Pat has a wine in mind for each dish from the wide-ranging list of interesting local and imported drops. Sit back, relax and let the boys take you on a taste adventure.
Margan Restaurant Broke
Lisa and Andrew Margan’s restaurant is another Hunter Valley venue drawing heavily on its own produce, including from beehives and olive grove. You can even start your lunch with a chef-guided tour of the Margan kitchen garden and orchard. Excellent house-baked focaccia contains lees from the winery and any dish with the Margan family lamb is a must try (pictured with smoked eggplant, olive and rosemary jus). The reserve wine matches are a wise investment.
