The ancient village of Romainmôtier in Switzerland’s Jura mountains is one of my favourite places in the world. It grew up around a monastic community founded about 450AD by a monk called Romanus and has a lovely sense of serenity (Romainmôtier means ‘Romanus’ monastery’).
I’ve been visiting Romainmôtier for years and feel at home here, sharing a drink with locals in the pub after dinner, returning to my favourite café to breakfast on excellent croissants, and visiting a nearby mountain chalet for great fondue. Of course, there are new discoveries to be made each visit too. Here are a few of the foodie highlights of this medieval village that’s the starting point for my Swiss food and wine tour.
Maison du Prieur & Romainmôtier Priory
The priory around which this charming village is built dates to the late 10th century. Today its ground floor houses a restaurant with several ornate dining rooms, one of which includes an open hearth in front of which chickens are roasted. The food is classic French Swiss including good house-made terrines and substantial fruit tarts. The adjoining church is one of Switzerland’s most important examples of Cluniac Romanesque architecture.
La Brasse-Mortier Micro-Brewery
This excellent micro-brewery is run as a cooperative by a team of locals committed to keeping artisanal brews alive. Archaeologist-turned-brewer, Fabrice Tournelle, handmakes six traditional beers using local spring water: a pilsner, wheat beer and stout, plus pale, old and red ales. Apart from great beer, there are delicious platters of regional cold cuts and cheese and live music some nights when neighbours drop by to jam.
Chez Magali Restaurant
For a long time, this beautiful village was lacking just one thing: a choice of great places to eat. Then along came Magali with her love of spices and Bretagne crepes! Now, in a shady cobbled courtyard next to the Brasse-Mortier, we can relax and enjoy a coffee and sweet treat, a snack and aperitif, or dig into a delicious buckwheat crepe or something heartier. Much of Magali’s cooking is inspired by the spices and flavours of the Middle East.
Fleur de Farine Boulangerie
It shouldn’t be hard to get a good croissant in Europe, right? It’s such a breakfast staple. But even in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, I’m often disappointed. Not so at this unassuming wood-fired bakery-café, where the almond croissants are my benchmark. The flans, artisanal bread and coffee are good too, as is the view of the priory from my preferred perch at the window counter. This is how I love to start my day – thank you Laure!
La Breguettaz Chalet-Restaurant
This wooden chalet, built in the early 1700s, is one of my favourite places for fondue. The short drive up from Romainmôtier is part of the adventure as it sits at 1080 metres in the Jura Mountains. Start with a plate of smoked ham, air-dried beef and pickles. Then dive into motie-motie fondue (half Gruyère half Vacherin Fribourgeois) and finish with the traditional meringue with cream and schnapps.
