Ireland holds a fascination for almost everyone. Its history ranges from megalithic tombs, Vikings and Normans, through heart-tugging tales of famine and emigration, to more modern day troubles. The eastern counties, from the Northern Ireland border to County Cork, is dubbed Ireland’s Ancient East. It’s the perfect way to get a taste of Ireland over a long weekend.
There’s the music, stories, and people who know how to pass the time of day, as well as stunning jagged coastlines, misty mountains and irregular patchworks of vibrant green fields and ancient stone walls. Fabulous local seafood and other produce make for great eats – from pubs to fine dining – and a growing craft beer scene means there’s much more than Guinness to enjoy. Here’s a taste of Ireland’s Ancient East, an easy road trip from Dublin.
Stay, Eat & Cook Ballymaloe House (Co. Cork)
Ballymaloe, Darina Allen’s wonderful cooking school, also refers to the nearby estate where her in-laws opened a restaurant in the 1960s. Today charming Ballymaloe House is a comfortable boutique hotel serving delicious breakfasts and dinners from local and estate-grown produce. Try champ if you get the chance, Ireland’s famous mashed potato with green onion (see video below).
Drive The Copper Coast (Co. Waterford)
Several roads criss-cross The Copper Coast Geopark, named for the area’s copper-mining past. Hug the jagged coastline as best you can for spectacular scenery including impressive sea stacks trailing out to sea, dramatic waves and great views up the coast.
Walk The Wicklow Way (Co. Wicklow)
Wicklow Mountains’ misty moorland, where peat-stained rivers and waterfalls look like they’re flowing with Guinness, is among the most hauntingly beautiful landscapes in a country full of superlatives. Well-marked walking trails make it easy to immerse yourself, though the less hardy can drive.
Pre-history Newgrange (Co. Meath)
It’s an incredible feeling walking along the passage of Newgrange megalithic tomb, which may be the oldest manmade structure on earth (circa 3,200 B.C.). The small corbelled-roofed chamber at the end, with stone bowls that once held cremated ashes, is lit by a shaft of sunlight at dawn on the winter solstice.
Pub The Templar’s Inn (Co. Wexford) – CLOSED
The scenic Hook Peninsular and historic Norman Way are County Wexford highlights. The Templar’s Inn, named for the neighbouring Knights Templar church, was the place to stop for sustenance. Sadly it’s closed, but the church ruins are still there and the Hook Peninsular drive is well worth the trip.
Updated 03 Apr 2025
