One of my favourite corners of Switzerland is the valley of the river Emme, the Emmental. Its rolling green hills are perfect for dairy farming and the holey cheese made here is synonymous with Swiss cheese.
But there’s so much more, including fields of tall wheat, orchards of gnarly ancient apple and pear trees, and traditional wooden farmhouses with signs announcing their eggs, veggies, honey, and plaited züpfe bread for sale. Climbing through dark forests, you pop out on hilltops with magical views, while down the hill in the village you may discover a cattle market in full swing in the main square. Langnau-im-Emmental is home to some of Switzerland’s finest traditional pottery and small distilleries throughout the region make excellent schnapps. Here are the highlights of my Emmental food tour.
Stay Landgasthof Bären
Some of my most memorable Swiss meals have been in traditional wooden landgasthofs, the equivalent of Aussie or British country pubs. They serve local beer, good Swiss wine by the glass and hearty traditional fare. Most of which are called Bären (bear), Löwen (lion) or Kreuz (cross), my favourite – both for accommodation and eats – is the Bären in the village of Sumiswald.
Eat Moos Pintli
Down the hill from Röthenbach’s 15th century church (below), in the village centre, you’ll find this rustic pub/dining room full of locals. As well as Swiss classics done well – like nüsslisalat and platters of cold cuts and cheese – they make excellent flammekueche (Alsatian flatbread). Service is friendly, wine selection good, and if you turn up on the right day you might just find the bi-annual cattle market taking place out the front!
Drink Brennerei Kramer
Swiss schnapps are clear, dry spirits traditionally distilled from excess fruit. In the Emmental that’s usually apples and pears made into bätzi. This small, family-run brennerei is a working distillery, with tubs of fruit everywhere waiting to become schnapps and a great aroma as you walk past the shiny copper stills. Distiller Simon Kramer makes traditional Emmentaler schnapps including bäzi, kräuter (herb) and härdöpfler (potato).
See Würzbrunnen Church
The village of Röthenbach, in the backwoods of the Emmental, grew around a priory. The church on the hill was built in the mid-1200s, though what we see today dates from the end of the 15th century after the original was destroyed by fire. While the exterior is beautiful in its simplicity, the inside is rich with images and texts narrating almost a millennia of Swiss history. The views of the Alps is spectacular on a clear day too.
Shop Pottery
Ueli Kohler, my favourite Langnau potter, is now semi-retired but still accepts some commissions and sells a small range of pottery from his home workshop. Töpferei Aebi is the showroom/workshop of potter Martina Zurbrügg who incorporates modern decorations to a range of traditional designs.
Updated 26 Nov 2024
