Milan – Italy’s second largest city – is such a convenient spot to fly in and out of, with that breathtaking view of The Alps from Malpensa Airport.
But while Milan’s an easy city to love if you’re into fashion, it takes a little more to uncover Milan’s best food and drink. So I’ve done the hard work for you with this Milan food lovers’ guide: where to eat, drink, stay and shop in Italy’s most fashion-conscious city, from Milan’s best restaurant to the perfect bars for aperitivo and a great place to stay close to the city centre. Value is relative, so while this might not quite be a guide to ‘cheap eats’ in Milan, follow my tips and you won’t spend a fortune to enjoy Milan’s best food, drinks, culture and art! First, keep ‘your Milan’ small, walking distance from Piazza Duomo and Italy’s largest church, the striking Gothic Santa Maria Nascente. Secondly, to enjoy a city as expensive as Milan on the cheap, and still eat and drink well, take advantage of aperitivo. This most Milanese of traditions is the perfect way to sit, drink, snack and soak up the atmosphere of beautiful locations without spending a lot of money.
Stay in Milan Hotel Gran Duca di York
Start with well-positioned accommodation, walking distance to everywhere you want to go. This comfortable hotel, just 600m from Piazza Duomo, has a lovely homey feel with light filled rooms, friendly staff, and little touches like a free non-alcoholic mini-bar, large block of choccy on the pillow and a complimentary welcome drink in the cosy bar. Nab the street facing room with a small leafy balcony if you can.
Eat in Milan Ristorante Ratanà
A 30 minute stroll from the centro storico, in beautiful parkland is this historic house serving some of the most delicious, inspired food I’ve ever eaten. Sit in the garden or perch at the bar and take advantage of the €24 business lunch with main course, glass of wine, water, and coffee, or deep dive into the great-value 5-course menu. Best house-made grissini ever and superb risotto Milanese. More details & photos here.
Aperitivo & Architecture Camparino in Galleria
Gaspare Campari started serving his bitter aperitif in the beautiful neoclassical Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 1915 – and the tradition of aperitivi (pre-dinner drinks with nibbles) was born. Other places may offer a more elaborate array of snacks, but they don’t sit within this grandeur. So do some serious Dior, Prada, Fendi, & Co. window shopping then hit Camparino for a little affordable luxury.
Aperitivo & Art Pinacoteca di Brera & Caffè Fernanda
You could spend half a day exploring one of the world’s foremost collections of Italian paintings in Milan’s main art gallery, the Pinacoteca di Brera in the Baroque Palazzo Brera (free entry first Sun of month). It’s also home to another of the best places in Milan for aperitivo, or coffee, and people watching: Caffè Fernanda in the loggia of the upper floor overlooking the courtyard (I could spend half a day here).
Aperitivo & History Colonne di San Lorenzo & Porta Ticinese
The remains of the Porta Ticinese, part of Milan’s Medieval city walls, sit beside the Colonne di San Lorenzo, a towering row of sixteen 7-meter-high marble columns believed to be part of a 2nd century Roman pagan temple. Spot lit at night, it’s a lively place to enjoy a casual drink and snack at one of the open air bars, or grab a panino and sit in Piazza di San Lorenzo.
Shop in Milan Via Brera
If you fancy a little affordable fashion shopping in Milan, skip the big name shops of the Quadrilatero d’Oro and stroll the narrow streets around Bohemian Via Brera (on your way to Ratanà or Caffè Fernanda perhaps). Amid the art galleries and shops selling feather quills for calligraphy is Cavalli e Nastri, full of pre-loved high-end fashion from Valentino handbags and Missoni dresses to second-hand Louboutins.
Culture in Milan Santa Maria presso San Satiro
If you don’t book tickets quickly enough for da Vinci’s Last Supper, you can pay a lot for a guided tour, or get your Milan culture fix by popping in to see Bramante’s trompe l’oeil behind the altar of this small church set back from the road between the chain shops on Via Torino (without crowds, appointment or charge). Clever use of fresco and stucco creates the illusion of a deep transept in a space of less than one metre.
Architecture in Milan Duomo di Milano
To enjoy Piazza Duomo and il Duomo di Milano for free, go at sunrise and wander around the outside of the Duomo – looking up at the endless variety of architectural details and sculptures hidden in its many nooks and crannies. The stonework is amazing. Then treat yourself to an early morning stroll through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II before the shops open and crowds descend.
Updated 24 Feb 2026
