I covered a lot of ground in overseas travel in 2019: Switzerland, several regions of France, the UK and Ireland.
I ate some fabulous meals from fine dining to simple pub fare and have to give a shout out to the superb bread and butter I enjoyed all over Ireland! Here’s a short list of the best dishes from around the world I ate in 2019 (though I’ve cheated just a little as you’ll see). I would travel many miles to eat any of these again!
Everything at Ynyshir (Glamorgan, Wales)
If I have to choose just one dish from the amazing degustation at Wales’ best restaurant (pictured top), it’s Cornish brown crab with ketchup and oil made from the shells, served with puffed rice, coriander and a good chilli hit. Perfect with a Slovenian skin-contact friulano. Scroll right here for the full Ynyshir experience.
Razor Clams Apicius (Paris, France)
We had a wonderful lunch in this luxurious 18th century mansion surrounded by a beautiful private garden in Paris. The raw razor clams marinated in elderflower and lime were a standout – though there was also the most delicious chocolate soufflé I’ve ever had – you’ll see it and more of Apicius here.
Gnocchi with Mushroom Auberge de la Croix-Blanche (Fribourg, Switzerland)
I always love the super-light gnocchi at this auberge in the Swiss countryside near Lake Murten. And I especially enjoyed the version I had this year flavoured (and dyed green) with seasonal wild garlic, tossed with chunks of local mushrooms and finished tableside with a generous grating of belper knolle (a lactic-ferment hard cheese from Canton Bern).
Oysters La Perle de Quehan (Brittany, France)
Oysters shucked to order and served overlooking Jeff Quintin’s leases on the Crac’h River in southern Brittany are as fresh as you can get. I can slurp down a dozen small flat Belons followed by a dozen cupped oysters with just a squeeze of lemon and some brown bread and butter and feel very satisfied!
Buckwheat Galettes Le Bateau Ivre (Brittany, France)
Brittany is famous for its galettes, super thin, crisp crêpes made from buckwheat flour. Some of the best I’ve ever had are served at this casual, bustling bar overlooking the beach in the village of Quiberon. They don’t look especially pretty, but filled with gruyere and ham and served with a simple salade vert, they make a delicious light dinner.
Poached Eggs in Époisses La Muse Bouche (Jura, France)
I almost forget I’m in France when I visit the Jura, it’s such a world apart. It’s the unique, yellow wines (vin jaune) that draw me there, but increasingly I’m finding the local food is just as good a reason to visit. This simple dish of lightly poached egg in a delicately flavoured emulsion of washed rind Époisses cheese is a case in point.
Apfelküchli Hotel Stadthaus (Emmental, Switzerland)
In the boutique hotel that what was once Burgdorf’s townhall (and my husband, Franz’s, childhood home), chef Christian Bolliger prepares the best version I’ve ever had of my favourite Swiss desert: slices of apple crumbed and deep-fried then dusted with sugar and served with vanilla custard.
Desserts at Le Comptoir (Paris, France)
I love the art deco dining room in my favourite Parisian Hotel and the great-value degustation they serve mid-week. This year was the first time I had the weekend a la carte menu and I adored the desserts of silken custard topped with crunchy granita – and an excellent apple tarte fine with vanilla-flecked ice cream.
Everything at Mews (Cork, Ireland) – CLOSED
Cheating? OK, let’s say local pink fir apple potato & foraged wild garlic finished tableside with a gravy-like malted barley and crème fraîche sauce, garnished with wild garlic flowers and preserved scapes. Scroll here for more Mews dishes. Update: Mews closed not long after my visit, and chef Ahmet Dede took his superb cooking to nearby Customs House.
Updated 02 Nov 2024
