For food lovers the world over, a pilgrimage to Paris is a rite of passage, but all those Michelin-stars can add a couple of extra zeros to the bill. Thankfully Paris is also the birthplace of bistros, casual restaurants serving traditional French food at great prices.
Paris bistros almost always offer an exceptional value 3-course menu-of-the-day and are as much a part of the history of this most foodie of cities as are the Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy. And if you do want some Michelin-starred meals without going too crazy, look out for the 2 or 3-course weekday lunch specials for world-class great value dining experiences.
Bistro Allard (6th arr.)
Opened in 1932 and now owned by Alain Ducasse, Allard is as old-school-French as they come, with charming staff, delicious bread, butter cut from a 5kg dome, and digestifs poured from double magnums. All the classics are here: gougères, terrines, perfectly dressed salad, turned vegetables and an impressive dessert trolley!
Robert et Louise (3rd arr.)
At this wonderfully rustic restaurant in the bohemian Marais district, meat is cut off a large chunk in the open kitchen and cooked on a metal plate over the fireplace. ‘Fresh sausages’ arrive as two thin sausages hot off the grill, the only garnish a smudge of grease; salt and mustard are on the table. Rustic terrine, buttery escargot, and andouillette are similarly unadorned. The likes of delicious mushroom omelette keeps non-carnivores happy.
Bistrot Paul Bert (11th arr.)
This large, traditional bistro with tightly packed tables and bustling service has a very impressive wine list. Seafood is well handled, meat dishes are classics (including the blanquette de veau in a cast-iron pot), the cheese board is generous and the Paris Brest is definitely the go-to dessert.
Josephine Chez Dumonet (6th arr.)
Old-fashioned tiled floors, lots of mirrors, bustling waiters, and unbelievably enormous servings (thankfully half serves of most dishes are available). Pickled herrings with potato salad is a stone crock large enough to serve four, house-cured salmon is the best I’ve ever had, and the apple tarte fin rivals Guillaume Brahimi’s.
Aux Lyonnais (2nd arr.)
If I only have one night in Paris, this ornate dining room is where I eat. From the generous bowl of herbed cheese and little sack of dark bread on arrival, to the excellent desserts, this is typical Alain Ducasse: wonderful service, setting and food. I love the charcuterie plate with pickles jar and wooden tongs, crisp fried frogs’ legs, and the famous seafood quenelles with Nantua (shellfish) sauce.
Le Comptoir (6th arr.)
I love this small art-deco room. Chef Yves Camdeborde sold to Sandrine Besnard) in 2021 and now Bruno Doucet (of La Regalade) continues the tradition of blending Michelin-starred skill with a simple bistro ethos. The menu is full of classics from salade Lyonnaise and beef tartare to butter-roasted lobster with a risotto of celery and bisque. A night at the adjacent Hotel Relais Saint Germain guarantees a table at this no-bookings bistro.
Updated 21 Dec 2024
