When I first visited southern Italy as a backpacker in the ‘80s, I stayed in small towns along the coast. Nondescript places with few tourists, just locals going about their daily lives. I still love to experience Italy this way, though – with its ever-increasing popularity – it’s a lot harder now.
Basilicata is one of the few regions where it’s still relatively easy to dodge mass-tourism and be a traveller among the locals. Small towns like Venosa in the north and Montescoliogso in the south of this largely land-locked region offer great glimpses into traditional southern Italian life. The food and culture have a lot in common with neighbouring Puglia, without the swarms of tourists, and the main appellation, Aglianico del Vulture, produces outstanding wines.
Stay Il Borgo Ritrovato (Montescoliogso)
This charming B&B, run by sisters Francesca and Lucia, is in a peaceful hill town just across the ravine from Matera. The sisters prepare an excellent breakfast buffet of regional dishes with local produce including cialledda fredda (see video below). Montescaglioso is a great base for a Basilicata food and wine tour, ideal for strolling around soaking up Italian life away from the tourist trail, and enjoying the impressive view across the plain to Matera.
Pizza Il Trappeto (Montescoliogso)
This busting pizzeria in a restored oil mill is close to Il Borgo Ritrovato (above) and run by the same family. Tables sit around the mill stones and original basket presses are off to one side. A pizza of local salsiccia and mushrooms with peperone crusco may be the best I’ve ever eaten. And a simple dessert of ricotta mousse with salted caramel is etched in my memory. The hospitality and friendliness make this one of the locals favourites too.
Fine-Dining La Villa (Melfi)
I discovered this wonderful family-run restaurant thanks to Elena Fucci (below). Father and son Michele and Vito Sonnessa are in the kitchen, while brother Gabriele runs the floor and cellar. Upstairs is cosy and rustic, but I prefer a table in the well-stocked cellar, “the heart of the restaurant” as Gabriele calls it. The degustation menu showcases local ingredients and traditional dishes with a twist and Gabriele’s wine matches are excellent. Food photos.
Drink Elena Fucci (Barile)
One of Italy’s most exciting winemakers, Elena Fucci has the highest vineyards in the Aglianico del Vulture appellation. In 2000, Elena took over the vineyards planted by her great grandfather at 600m on the side of Mount Vulture. She combines intuitive knowledge with science, making excellent wine with both head and heart. A guided tasting with Elena is the best way to understand Basilicata’s most important grape, aglianico.
See The Holy Trinity Complex (Venosa)
Venosa, birthplace of the Roman poet Horace, is home to a unique religious complex. Built on the site of a pre-Christian temple, possibly by Benedictines, the Romans, Lombards and Normans all had a hand in it. It consists of an ancient church with wonderful Byzantine frescoes and mosaic floors, and a ‘new’ unfinished church started in the 12th century and later used by the Knights of Malta. It’s open to the public and well worth a wander.
