I love food – and I love wine. But best of all I love it when the two come together in a marriage that is greater than the sum of its parts, In the best food & wine matches each lifts the other to new heights.
And I love eating in restaurants where the staff know their stuff well enough to help make this happen. Here are some of the best food and wine matches I had in 2017. Cheers!
Firedoor Sud de Frank White & Ash-Baked Potato
The simple things can make life wonderful. Like ash-baked potato topped with dill crème frâiche and a thick coating of grated bottarga. Bar manager Carl McHugh-Constable always manages to challenge my wine preconceptions, this time with Sud de Frank, an interesting sauv blanc/petit manseng blend.
Bennelong Jim Barry Assyrtiko & Yabbies
I loved perching at Bennelong’s cured and cultured bar on a sunny day for a plate of Rob Cockerill’s yabbies with buckwheat pikelets, lemon jam and cultured cream. And I’m very grateful to sommelier Jeremy Croft for suggesting a glass of the unusual Greek varietal, assyrtiko, from Jim Barry.
Pilu Baretto Moscato di Cagliari & crema Catalana
Every summer, Giovanni Pilu’s beachside kiosk morphs into a great little wine bar after dark. And his crema Catalana with Calasetta in Fundu Moscato di Cagliari is a killer combo (grazie Alex and Salvatore). The golden muscat has great burnt orange notes that echo the toffee crust on this lush custard dessert!
Eleven Bridge: Regente Palo Cortado & Chicken with Kombu Butter – CLOSED
13 May 2017 was final service at short-lived Eleven Bridge – still Rockpool to me, the restaurant that taught so many what ‘fine dining’ is. Phil Wood’s chicken wing with kombu butter & caviar and Sanchez Romate Regente Palo Cortado is one of my all time fave matches. What an umami high! Catch Phil’s inspired cooking now at Ursula’s Paddington.
Cedar Bar & Kitchen: Aperol Spritz & Homous with Crisp Lamb – CLOSED
In a converted Bellingen church, chef Paul Harper made a mean Aperol spritz, the perfect accompaniment to his homous with smoky paprika, pine nuts, crisp lamb and warm soft flatbread. Since the closure of Cedar Bar a few new great spots have sprung up in Bellingen to keep locals, and visitors, well fed and watered.
Published 9 Apr 2017; Updated 2 Jan 2026
