Recipe – Mushroom Duxelles

Mushroom Duxelles Duxelles is a classic French preparation of finely chopped mushroom and onion cooked down in butter with herbs (usually thyme or parsley), black pepper and salt, sometimes with a dash of cream, Sherry or Madeira. It’s used in a range of English recipes including stuffings, sauces and garnishes and, most notably, in beef […]

Recipe – Herb Scones

Herb Scones I love herb scones alongside a bowl of soup, but they also make a great savoury addition to afternoon tea. Use just one herb or a mixture of any fresh herbs you like: parsley, chervil, dill, chives, tarragon or thyme – even a little very finely chopped rosemary – in this versatile, tasty […]

Recipe – Aussie ‘Solomon Gundy’

Aussie Solomon Gundy Solomon Gundy is a classic Jamaican spread (also called solomon-a-gundy) made from heavily salted herring so strongly smoked that the flesh turns a reddish brown (thus ‘red herrings’). The rather odd sounding name comes from the old-fashioned English term salmagundi, referring to a highly-seasoned dish made from a mixture of meat and […]

Recipe – Bajan Corn Soup

Bajan Corn Soup Hearty corn soup is popular in many parts of the Caribbean, including Jamaica, Trinidad and Barbados. This is my take on the Barbadian version inspired by a recipe Paul Carmichael gave me – I love the three different textures of corn. Bajan corn soup often contains pumpkin or sweet potato, which I […]

Recipe – Chicken in Half Mourning

Chicken in Half Mourning This is my version of poulet demi-deuil, a classic French dish made by placing shaved black truffles under the skin of a chicken, resembling the veil of a woman in mourning. It seems that the appearance is only ‘half mourning’ because some of the bird’s white flesh is still seen; full […]

Recipe – La Ribollita (Tuscan Bread & Bean Soup)

La Ribollita The famous Tuscan soup, Ribollita, is a classic example of delicious cucina povera (peasant cooking). The name literally means ‘reboiled’ as it was created to use up leftover beans and vegetables cooked for Friday, the fast day when no meat was eaten. On Saturday, they were turned into a hearty soup with stale […]

Recipe – Axoa d’Espelette (Basque Veal Stew)

Axoa d’Espelette (Basque Veal Stew) I discovered axoa d’Espelette, a classic Basque dish, when I visited the town of Espelette in southwestern France, famous for its mild dark red chillies drying under the eaves of the whitewashed houses. I brought home jars of the ground piment d’Espelette which flavours this and so many other Basque […]

Recipe – Tapenade

Tapenade I love salt, so a dish made of black olives, capers and anchovies is right up my alley. Tapenade hails from Provence in the sunny south of France and is generally regarded as an olive paste, however the name comes from ‘tapeno’ meaning ‘caper bud’ in the Provençal language, so be sure to use […]

Recipe – Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemon

Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemon This super simple, super delicious roast chook is my kind of comfort food. I love the combination of chicken, rice and yoghurt, but you could serve crispy smashed potatoes with it if you prefer. I also love preserved lemons, but it always seems a bit wasteful to throw away the […]

Recipe – French Onion Soup

French Onion Soup Soup, bread, cheese: three of my favourite comfort foods. I love French onion soup because it combines all three! Beef stock is considered the traditional base, but I often use chicken stock or just water. Sometimes I use the stock leftover from poaching veal for vitello tonnato and find the vinegar cuts […]

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