Recipe – Skordalia

Skordalia Greece’s famous garlicky white dip is sometimes made with bread as the thickening agent, sometimes with ground almond and sometimes potato. I love chef Janni Kyritsis’ version using both bread and almond as it gives a lovely rich flavour. Any leftover will keep in the fridge for 3–4 days and is delicious slathered over […]

Recipe – Southern Ham Salad

SouthernHam Salad The South is famous for smoked ham. It’s fried for breakfast, sliced for sandwiches and popular in this party favourite. It’s called a salad, but is really more of a dip or spread, perfect for serving alongside its retro cousins, pimento cheese spread and devilled eggs, for an impressive start to a big […]

Recipe – Crisp Potato Skins

Crisp Potato Skins This recipe is inspired by one in a 1980s Gourmet Traveller magazine and I make it with potato skins leftover from preparing gnocchi. Roasting the potatoes on a bed of rock salt then passing them through a ricer ensures the driest potato and therefore the lightest gnocchi. It also leaves you with […]

Recipe – Bacon from Heaven

Bacon from Heaven There seem to be as many recipes for this cake as there are cooks; my simple version is inspired by the one Edite Vieira gives in her wonderful book The Taste of Portugal. She says that it originated in the Middle Ages in a convent (as so many Portuguese desserts did) and […]

Recipe – Shortcrust Cookies

I hate wasting pastry offcuts, so when I make a tart or pie I use the remaining pastry for these tasty little shortcrust cookies. Unlike puff pastry, shortcrust can be rerolled without ill effect, so all of it can be used. If you’re using Carême pastry and store the offcuts in the fridge for more […]

Recipe – Vegetable Stock

Vegetable Stock A good vegetable stock can be the base of great soups, risotto, casseroles and many other dishes. Roasting the vegetables before boiling them adds further flavour and depth. Stock freezes really well too, so you can always have some on hand. Once you see how simple it is, you’ll never buy stock again. […]

Recipe – Brown Chicken Stock

Chicken Stock A good chicken stock is the base for great soups, risotto, casseroles and many other dishes. Even seafood and red meat dishes often use chicken stock for its subtle flavour that adds depth without competing with the star Ingredients. Roasting the chicken bones before boiling them, to make what is called a brown […]

Recipe – Hamin Eggs with Cumin Salt

I first tasted this dish in the mid ‘90s at Middle Eastern restaurant Fez in Darlinghurst, and it became my go-to breakfast dish. Years later I discovered that it’s the long slow cooking that gives hamin eggs their creamy texture and brown onion skins that add the beautiful colour. In Israel these eggs are called […]

Recipe – Beetroot Pickled Turnips

Pickled vegetables are always present on a Middle Eastern table. Olives, green chillies and turnips are most common but small eggplants, cucumbers and cauliflower are also popular. Turnips, traditionally stained bright pink with beetroot juice, are the most distinctive, though commercial ones are usually artificially coloured these days. The good news is they’re easy to […]

Recipe – Shallot Pancakes

These northern Chinese snacks are irresistibly moreish and a great way to use up the green onion tops that so often end up in the bin. The Method is a simple process of rolling the dough several times to create layers that puff up slightly when cooked. The most important part is rolling it thinly […]