As a reformed vegetarian, it’s odd that my favourite way to eat meat is raw, but I can rarely resist this dish when I see it on a menu. I love the theatre of it being mixed tableside by an experienced waiter and the traditional crinkly pommes gaufrettes with it, though crisped baguette slices work pretty well too (or turn it into a main course with a side of pommes Dauphinoise – see video below). Steak tartare is an impressive dish to serve at home and, although there’s a bit of chopping involved, it can all be done ahead of time and just plated at the last minute. While my version sticks to the traditional seasonings (except I prefer chives to parsley), some people like a dash of tomato ketchup, Dijon mustard and/or brandy, so feel free to experiment. The key is to hand cut the meat rather than use a mincer, which gives a pasty texture. With this I like a soft chilled red, such as Pat Sullivan’s crazy Jumpin’ Juice blend of possibly malbec, shiraz, pinot, moscato and sauv blanc (the exact combo’s a secret).
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