The more I research rouille the more confused I become. Even the most respected experts seem to disagree on what should go into this classic Provençal sauce that’s traditionally served with bouillabaisse. The only thing I can confirm with certainty is that this spicy mayonnaise must be a rust-coloured emulsion, as ‘rouille’ means ‘rust’. Some rouille recipes use red capsicum (or a similar mild red pepper such as piquillo) while others obtain the colour from just saffron and chilli (fresh or a pinch of cayenne or paprika). When serving rouille with a fish soup, most recipes add some of the fish poaching liquid and thicken it with breadcrumbs or potato. I prefer mine unthickened so it melts into the broth or sauce more quickly. Chef Damien Pignolet, my go-to on all things French, assures me that rouille can be made without a thickening agent. If you prefer it thicker, Damien recommends potato over bread; you can find his rouille recipe in his excellent book French. This recipe makes quite a lot, but it’s so moreish that you’ll use more of it than you think. Leftover rouille keeps for days refrigerated and makes a great dip for raw or steamed vegetables or slathered onto croutons. Perhaps it’s the matching hue, but I love a glass of Future Days White when I’m snacking on croutons spread with this rust-coloured mayo. It’s an intriguing, deliciously quaffable, no-rules blend of riesling, arneis, pinot gris (thus the colour, I suspect) and chardonnay.
Makes about ⅔ cup (160ml)
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