Risotto Milanese originated in Milan, where it’s the traditional accompaniment to ossobuco. Lombardy is the home of risotto, and my friend Alessandro Pavoni is the king of risotto making. He was born in Brescia in Lombardy and you haven’t tasted risotto until you’ve tasted his! This recipe is inspired by the way he taught me to make risotto (see video below). Risotto Milanese is one of the simplest and most delicious risottos – rich, aromatic and golden – it’s the perfect recipe to learn the basics of risotto making. Once you’ve mastered risotto Milanese you can create an endless variety of risottos – there’s a whole chapter dedicated to them in A Lombardian Cookbook which Alessandro and I co-wrote. Traditionally, if making risotto Milanese without the ossobuco, some bone marrow (available from good butchers) is stirred through it at the end with the butter and cheese; you can leave this out for a vegetarian version that still tastes delicious. In Italy, leftover risotto is never reheated – it would be overcooked and gluggy. It’s often made into rice balls, called arancini in the south and suppli in the north. In Lombardy it’s more often pan-fried into a crisp rice cake called risotto al salto. Most chefs prefer carnaroli rice to the more widely available arborio, for risotto, as it absorbs more liquid (therefore flavour) without splitting, and gives the creamiest result. Acquerello is the best carnaroli rice I know; it’s available in Australia through Lario Fine Foods. When it comes to a wine match, I love a glass of Sabi Wabi Hunnybee semillon from the Hunter Valley; it’s textural and creamy, just like this risotto Milanese.
Serves 2 as starter or 4 as a side dish
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