One of Puglia’s most popular dishes – riso, patate e cozze (or ‘ris, patan e strazz’ in dialect) – originated around Bari in the 16th century during the Spanish rule in southern Italy. It’s a layered dish of rice-stuffed mussels surrounded by delicious potato, and also known as tiella Barese after the city of Bari and the dish in which it’s traditionally baked and served. The tiella is traditionally made from terracotta, but can also be enamel, ceramic or metal. I use an ovenproof cast-iron frying pan which works very well. Apart from the riso, patate e cozze (rice, potato and mussels) listed in the recipe title, tielle Barese always contains small tomatoes and a generous amount of Pecorino Romano to enhance the savouriness of the mussels. Serve a Southern Italian tomato & bread salad alongside your tiella Barese (see video below) and a glass of negramaro, one of Puglia’s most popular grapes. I love the version from Coriole in McLaren Vale, it has a lovely hint of spice and a nice acid finish to balance the richness of this dish.

Serves 2

Ingredients
  • 16 blue mussels, scrubbed (about 450g/1lb)
  • 100g arborio rice (3½oz)
  • Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
  • ½ brown onion, finely diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 250g Dutch cream potato, peeled and finely sliced (9oz)
  • 100g cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters or eighths (3½oz)
  • 35g freshly grated Pecorino Romano (1¼oz)
  • Handful flat-leaf parsley, finely sliced (about 15g/½oz)
  • Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Method
  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
  2. Shuck the mussels over a bowl to catch the liquor (details here). Cover mussels and refrigerate until ready to use.
  3. Strain liquor into a jug and set aside.
  4. Rinse the rice well under running water. Set aside to drain.
  5. Generously oil a 25cm (10″) round baking dish.
  6. Scatter half the onion and half the garlic over the base.
  7. Arrange half the potato on top, then dot with half the tomato.
  8. Sprinkle with a third of the Pecorino and a third of the parsley, then salt and pepper (remembering that the Pecorino and mussel juice are salty).
  9. Drizzle with oil then arrange the mussel shells on top in a single layer with the meat facing up.
  10. Scatter half the remaining Pecorino and half the remaining parsley over them, then more salt and pepper.
  11. Sprinkle rice evenly over the mussels.
  12. Scatter with remaining onion and garlic, half the remaining tomatoes and half the remaining parsley.
  13. Sprinkle with more salt and pepper and drizzle with oil.
  14. Add a little more Pecorino then arrange the remaining potato on top and dot with remaining tomato.
  15. Scatter with remaining parsley and Pecorino, sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with oil.
  16. Pour about 1 cup (250ml) of the mussel liquor gently down the sides of the dish, so as not to disturb anything, leaving any sediment behind.
  17. Pour in enough water to bring the liquid up to just below the top level of potato.
  18. Place in the oven for 40–50 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and the top is golden and crisp, using the overhead grill for the last few minutes if need be to get a good colour.
  19. Remove from oven, cover with a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm place for 5 minutes.
  20. Serve tiella Barese warm with big serviettes and a bowl for the empty mussel shells.

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Diane (Cremorne Point, NSW, Aus.)
Diane (Cremorne Point, NSW, Aus.)
Relaxed, organised and well-paced – a wonderful bespoke small group tour, starting in Rome, then travelling down the Amalfi Coast to stay at a family estate where we were treated like old friends. This tour included some hidden gems too, notably on our way to Matera, a fascinating town built into the side of a mountain. We finished with Naples and Pompeii – with plenty of wine and more new tastes. Roberta is a specialist and very personable as she hosts and explains every detail of the food and wine experience.
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Belinda (Balmain, NSW, Aus.)
I’ve been on three of Roberta’s food and wine tours so far and each one has been an amazing well-organised experience. From historic Rome and Pompeii to the spectacular Amalfi Coast, remarkable Venice and the charming villages of Switzerland, each tour offers something special. Then there’s the food in fabulous places where you can truly eat like a local. I highly recommend Roberta’s tours to anyone who wants to discover inspired travel through great food, wine and company. I’m already looking forward to the next one!
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Michael (Cremorne, NSW, Aus.)
Starting in Rome then spending time on the Amalfi Coast and further south before heading back to Rome for the last couple of days made for a nice ‘round trip’. Roberta’s choice of eateries was excellent with some very enjoyable meals – and a nice mix of other activities, like vineyard visits, between meals. Everything was very well organised: transport, nice hotels in close proximity to most activities, and a relaxed pace with enough time to follow your nose if that took your fancy. A very worthwhile tour and I’m already looking forward to another!
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Di (Manly, NSW, Aus.)
I absolutely recommend Roberta’s Southern Italy tour! We’ve always been independent travellers so were a little apprehensive – by day 2 we knew we’d made a great decision! Roberta knows people and places far from the tourist trail so we visited wineries where we were always invited for lunch as well as wine-tasting, a family lemon grove high on the Amalfi Coast and a 3rd generation cheesemaker. We stayed in a stunning cave hotel in Matera and a gorgeous family hotel in Scala – and book-ended the tour with the vibrancy of Rome. So many highlights, such a brilliant experience. We will do another tour with Roberta.
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Neville (St Ives, NSW, Aus.)
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