Beef short ribs are a firm cut of meat that needs to be cooked low and slow until tender; in Western cuisine, this often involves braising in red wine and beef stock. In China, soy sauce, sugar and Shaoxing wine are often combined to make a braising liquid that imparts a wonderful mahogany sheen to the meat (thus the name ‘red braised’). This homestyle Chinese recipe, hong shao niu rou, uses the classic technique of red braising (hongshao) combined with spicy Sichuan flavours. In the southwestern province of Sichuan, the sweet red braising liquid is given a spicy kick from dried red chillies, mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns and doubanjiang (also written toban djan), a fermented paste of chilli and broad beans. The best doubanjiang is from Pixian in Sichuan province, so find one with ‘Pixian’ on the label if you can. There, artisanal producers ferment local broad beans and chillies, ageing the paste in earthenware pots for years. My preferred wine pairing for these beef ribs – La Petite Mort VMR Qvevri – is also aged in clay, in a Georgian-style amphora called a qvevri. Sichuan food is notoriously hot, so adjust the number of chillies to suit your taste – 6 chillies will give a gentle heat, while 12 will provide a more authentic Sichuan experience for true chilli lovers. Red braising can be used to flavour poultry too, in dishes like my Chinese red braised chicken salad – and the leftover braising liquid from these beef ribs makes an excellent Sichuan beef noodle soup.
Serves 4
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