The colder the weather, the more we crave the comfort of a steaming bowl of something tasty and nourishing and so, not surprisingly, Scotland has many delicious soups. Cock-a-leekie is a traditional Scottish chicken and leek soup, dating to at least the 1500s. From humble origins, using an old hen past its laying days and the most basic vegetables in the croft garden, it now often appears on festive menus like Burns’ Suppers. The name lists the key ingredients – a cock (or chicken) plus leeks – though makes no mention of the more unusual, and sometimes controversial, addition of prunes. I’ve seen recipes that include rice or barley which, while not traditional, makes for a heartier dish. More traditionally a chopped marrow bone is included in the initial simmering, with the marrow scooped out and stirred into the soup once the stock is strained. The white part of the leeks are usually just boiled in the broth, but I prefer the flavour and texture when they’re cooked down in some butter first. Traditionally just a little of the chicken meat was returned to the soup, the rest being served as a second course with potatoes or mealie (a mixture of oatmeal, lard and onion) and mustard sauce. I found a fun wine pairing for this chicken and leek soup in La Chica con Tinta Garnacha (grenache) from Victorian winery Hirsch Hill (try it lightly chilled). I’ve also made a delicious vegetarian ‘cock-a-leekie’ from just potatoes and leeks.

Serves 2–4 as a starter

Ingredients
  • 1 large or 2 medium-sized leeks, trimmed (about 450g/16oz total weight)
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 1 fresh bay leaf
  • 3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 x chicken Maryland
  • 1 litre cold water (2 pints)
  • Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 30g butter (1oz)
  • 4 prunes, pitted and finely sliced
  • Baps or other soft rolls, for serving
Method
  1. Cut 2 long slices through most of the leek lengthways, leaving just the green part intact to hold it together.
  2. Wash thoroughly then cut into 1cm-thick (½″) slices, keeping the green and white parts separate; wash green part again if it’s still dirty.
  3. Tie thyme, bay leaf and 2 sprigs of parsley together with a piece of kitchen twine to form a bouquet garni.
  4. Finely chop remaining parsley leaves, cover and set aside for garnish.
  5. Place chicken into a saucepan with the water, adding a little more if necessary to completely cover it.
  6. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and skim off any froth that’s floated to the top.
  7. Add bouquet garni, 1 tablespoon (10g/⅓oz) of salt and the green part of the leek.
  8. Increase heat, return to the boil, then reduce heat to as low as possible, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.
  9. Remove from heat and set aside, covered, for 10 minutes or so (longer is OK).
  10. Meanwhile, melt butter in a frying pan over low heat.
  11. Add the white part of the leek and a good pinch of salt, stir well, cover and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but not coloured. Set aside covered.
  12. Strain the chicken, reserving the liquid and setting the chicken aside until it’s cool enough to handle. Return liquid to a clean saucepan; discard remaining solids.
  13. Taste liquid and add salt and pepper.
  14. Add the white part of the leek and any cooking juices, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  15. Meanwhile, when cool enough to handle, remove chicken meat from the bone, discarding skin and bone, and set aside; it’s OK if it’s slightly pink as it’ll finish cooking in the soup.
  16. Taste soup again, add salt, pepper, chicken meat and prune to the pan.
  17. Cook for a further minute or so until meat is heated through.
  18. Serve cock-a-leekie sprinkled with remaining parsley, with Baps on the side.

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Cock-a-Leekie Soup

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