Paris has many beautiful public squares (‘place’ in French), but none more attractive to food lovers than the one built around the imposing 19th century neoclassical church L’église Sainte-Marie-Madeleine.
Ringed with gorgeous, indulgent food shops, Place de la Madeleine is always my first stop in Paris. Whether I want to eat, drink, or just browse these are my must-visit shops on Place de la Madeleine.
Caviar Kaspia
I love browsing the caviars, smoked fish, vodka and beautiful accoutrement – from mother of pearl spoons to Limoges caviar capsules modelled on Russian dolls – in this home of caviar. Then I head upstairs to the charming dining room and splash out on caviar or just soak up the ambience and enjoy more affordable treats like the rarely-seen smoked sturgeon, or smoked salmon and trout.
Boutique Maille
Only in France does mustard warrant its own ’boutique’. And there’s no finer name in French mustard than Maille (pronounced like ‘may’ with a stretch: maay). At this colourful mustard boutique, master mustard makers are on hand to provide tastings and explanations of the wide range of mustards (flavoured with everything from saffron to coconut). There are Maille vinegars, cornichons and other condiments to discover too.
Maison de la Truffe
From the moment you open the door there’s no mistaking what this little shop is all about: truffles, fresh and mixed into every foodstuff imaginable! Friendly staff offer a whiff of damp sea salt infused with truffles and a taste of truffle-scented nuts. The daily set menu in the bistro is a very affordable indulgence, as are the cute little truffle brushes topped with realistic replicas of the precious black fungi.
Nicolas
I love strolling around a good bottle shop, exploring affordable local wines and, in this case, visiting the downstairs cave to dream about grand crus I’m rarely likely to taste. When there’s a good bistro upstairs I’m even happier. The great-value daily menu includes the likes of duck confit and pear tart and a window table provides an excellent view of the imposing Madeleine Church.
Mariage Frères
I adore the row upon row of black tea canisters on elegant wooden shelving, the most beautiful collection of samovars, tea pots and cups from around the world, and occasional bursts of brightly coloured tea tins. Although their Place de la Madeleine store offers the widest selection of tea there’s nothing to eat here, but the other Parisian Mariage Frères outlets include restaurants and tearooms.
Patrick Roger
Part sculpture gallery, part high-end chocolate shop, this chocolate boutique needs to be seen to be believed. The chocolates – made from the best Madagascan chocolate, almonds from Patrick’s own grove, and other premium nuts, fruit and spices – are as much works of art as are the larger bronze, steel, silicone and aluminium sculptures on display.
Updated 19 Dec 2024
